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(3) Red Wall
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Anastasia 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: hemp22 on Jul 2, 2009
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A friend of mine climbing on Anastasia at the crux...

Description 

A short, popular TR with an interesting flare section. This route sees a lot of traffic, probably due to the ease of setting it up as a Top-rope. Climb a slabby section following edges & thin crack to a good stance below the obvious flaring pod. The crux sequence up & through the pod can be tough to figure out at first, but after figuring out the moves, this is easy for 5.9 and over quickly. After the pod a few more easy moves take you to the anchor.


Location 

On the far left side or Red Wall - just above the rescue litter - it's the obvious flare about 20' left of classic crack. To set a TR, follow the trail to the left from the base of the climb, and then back around to the right to reach the ledge by scrambling over & behind a boulder.


Protection 

Normally Top-roped.
Gear placements on lead are sparse and marginal, so not really recommended to lead this on your first time.



Photos of Anastasia Slideshow Add Photo
nice shot of Hannah on the flare of Anastasia.
nice shot of Hannah on the flare of Anastasia.
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By another Chad
Apr 16, 2012

Hemp, where are these gear placements? I've scrutinized this line and all I see is a terrible placement for a small wire near the bottom of the flare. Might be able to slam a pin in somewhere. I'd call this thing x rated as a lead.


Chad

By hemp22
Apr 20, 2012

if I remember correctly, there's a decent nut at the left side of the narrow rail (near the climber's left heel in the picture), and a sketchy orange TCU in the back of the flare.
Definitely best to just TR.