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Anasazi VCS Hightops review
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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 4, 2013
So I was a f'ing idiot and lost (ie left) both pairs of my shoes. But at least it gave me an opportunity to try out another pair of shoes I'd be wanting to try, the Anasazi Hightop.

TLDR; Bitching shoes. If you like the Anasazi VCS you'll like these.

-Same midsole last and heel as the Anasazi VCS which is great if you know what VCS size you are. Also means you can still get rad on overhanging stuff and throw some bitching heel hooks

-Terry cloth "padded" tongue is way comfy

-Actual split grain leather upper vs that new "Cowdura" stuff five ten is putting in most of their shoes now. I have no experience with Cowdura yet, but when my Arrowhead's come in I'll be able to compare. My feet are notoriously sweaty/ stinky so BIG plus for me. Also the fact that I have a "size up" in instep volume makes the slight leather stretch nice as well.

-C4 rubber makes these guys nice and sticky

-The Velcro straps are kinda long. That being said my oddly proportioned foot and ankle volume might be the reason for that. Will probably have to trim them a few month down the road when the fabric stretches so I don't step on the lower ones.

-Not as stiff as the Grandstones, which I dig since I felt like I had boots on with those.

-Have done a number of laps on 5.8-5.10 Ow's and these guys kill it. Way better than my prisms with my ankles taped.

-Still need to get use to a larger toe box since I was mainly climbing in 5.10 Projects before.

-Being able to take off hightops fast/easy is a SWEET feature for me and my hot sweaty feet.

-REI carries them O.O who would have thought with such a small market shoe, and how REI seems to not like 5.10

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By Stealthy
Apr 5, 2013
i agree! i fit the anasazi line really well, and was stoked to get into a lined leather version of the VCS with the added benefit ( for long routes and crack protection) of a high top. Great for all things granite so far...killer shoe for Tahquitz, and i'm looking forward to using these at index, the sierra, and in the cascades this season.

disclaimer: i work for 5.10 so my opinion will likely be found as biased by some. but again for someone who fits anasazi last well, these shoes do succeed at their intended purpose. and just so everyone knows REI and Five Ten are getting along great again. expect to see more and more options from Five Ten in REI's assortment in the future.

if anyone needs info on Five Ten, like facts and or opinions from someone who has climbed in many five ten styles over the years as well as many other brands in my 20 plus years climbing feel free to hit me up. i will give you my honest opinion.

kevin

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By Cultivating Mass
Apr 7, 2013
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Yeah, they look pretty sweet.

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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Apr 8, 2013
blah
I have a pair for long routes in zion since there seems to always be an OW or chimney to climb through. the leather and C4 is the main selling point for me. its a VCS made of the right materials. I hate Onyx and synthetic uppers on most shoes. I have had a few weird moments climbing through thin pitches with them on. the toebox in the size I bought feels a little clunky for thin crack. mine dont rand smear all that well in fingers to tips. However the diagonal point that the toe edge takes is far better for me then the rounded profile of the TC pro. I do wish it had a little toe padding though. All in all great shoe for all day stuff it is especially nice for offwidth and smearing style faces.

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 8, 2013
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:
I have had a few weird moments climbing through thin pitches with them on. the toebox in the size I bought feels a little clunky for thin crack. mine dont rand smear all that well in fingers to tips. However the diagonal point that the toe edge takes is far better for me then the rounded profile of the TC pro.


Oh I just thought me having trouble on thin cracks was not being good at footwork for them :P We'll have to see how I do when I get some better shoes for that style.

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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Apr 8, 2013
blah
I also have a fetish for rock shoes...soo maybe its me

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jun 23, 2013
After a 1.5 weeks in tahoe and yosemite I've only grown to like these guys more.

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By Jared Wicks
From Las Vegas
Sep 4, 2013
Taking it in from the top of the route.  Notice the brand new chains!
Question for you all...

Super stoked to get into a pair of these but I'm curious on the sizing. I'm currently climbing in the Anasazi Blanco Lace-Up (Cowdura) and the Stonelands VCS (Split-Grain Leather) which are both size 10. The Stonelands were supposed to be my "all-day" shoe but I found that they didn't stretch as much as I thought they would and I can only tolerate them for about 10 pitches before my feet start screaming.

I was considering buying the Hi-Tops a half size bigger for the long days on the wall hoping that they'd be a bit more comfortable while not giving up too much in the area of performance.

What's everyone's thoughts about this with these particular shoes?

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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Sep 4, 2013
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.
NorCalNomad wrote:
-Not as stiff as the Grandstones, which I dig since I felt like I had boots on with those.


Any more/less comfortable than the Grandstones? I love my grandstones, but lately they have been killing my toes, and I'm not even downsizing them or anything. My feet just ache like crazy after a day or two of climbing in them. I love them, and how they perform, but I just can't get my feet used to the toe box in them for some reason, and the idea of having Velcro hightops is something I really like too.

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Sep 4, 2013
Well sounds like that'd be something you have to try since in my experience matching a toebox to a foot is the #1 thing to make a shoe comfy or not. But the grandstone toebox is boxer than the anasazi.

Also after using these all summer I like them more and more.

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Sep 4, 2013
Jared Wicks wrote:
Question for you all... Super stoked to get into a pair of these but I'm curious on the sizing. I'm currently climbing in the Anasazi Blanco Lace-Up (Cowdura) and the Stonelands VCS (Split-Grain Leather) which are both size 10. The Stonelands were supposed to be my "all-day" shoe but I found that they didn't stretch as much as I thought they would and I can only tolerate them for about 10 pitches before my feet start screaming. I was considering buying the Hi-Tops a half size bigger for the long days on the wall hoping that they'd be a bit more comfortable while not giving up too much in the area of performance. What's everyone's thoughts about this with these particular shoes?


I'm not sure if the stonelands is a lined leather or not but the hightop is and doesn't stretch much.

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By Stealthy
Sep 4, 2013
Stonelands and Anasazi HT both feature lined leather uppers and Stealth C4 outsoles...beside from that they differ considerably.

I find the Stonelands last to fit more snug in the same size than a similar Anasazi in the toe box specifically. I'm a size 12 street shoe, and wear 11 or 11.5 in the Anasazi depending on slingshot tension and intended use. I wear no smaller than 12 in any Stonelands. Stonelands are lined and will not stretch much. secure, comfortable fit. I choose these for longer days, or less sustained routes. Go for Anasazi when it's super techy and I need all the performance I can get.

The Anasazi HT that I have and enjoy are 11.5 and have become more supple in the toe box, and allow my toes to lay mostly flat in an 11.5. The shape of the toe box and stiffness of the rands keep my big toe in a great position to edge very well and secure and not painful in the pinky toes while jamming tight hand sized cracks.

All Stonelands are lined. The VCS is lined leather, and medium stiffness. The lace is lined synthetic and the softest of the three. The slipper is lined leather and stiff...a great crack shoe that can torque in wider cracks and edge well, while still allowing flat toes for the thin cracks and overall stiffness for endurance.

Personally loving the lined leather / C4 combo these days! And stoked for the return of the "Pinkys" O-G Anasazi lace up revised with new heel, C4 rands, and new midsole...spring '14

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 4, 2013
Why would you bring back the pink when the blanco is a better version of the same thing? (said as a guy who was originally pissed to see the pink go, but now love the blanco way better)

I tried the initial version of the VCS higtops, which weren't leather as I recall, and something about them was muy funky. Had some bright yellow on them IIRC, definitely didn't look like the leather ones...protos maybe? Got em at the HQ. Never liked them, despite using the regular vcs as one of my main shoes in the quiver. Sold them pretty quickly.

In a hightop, I want relatively flat toes for heel-toeing wide cracks. Anasazi last in general for me means slightly bent toes for any kind of performance, particularly in the 3rd/4th toe. Which means mucho pain in heel-toe. Also not stiff enough for that action.

Just always seemed like a poorly thought-out design to me...but again, maybe I had early prototypes and they are stiffer now.

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By Stealthy
Sep 5, 2013
Will,

Sounds like you did have an early version of the HT, totally different uppers, and different strap placement I believe. Current version is an improvement for sure.

The new pinks have an improved fit, most noticeable in the back of the shoe. The rands are improved, and they just seem to stand on the shoulders of their previous versions...time will tell.

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By Xan Calonne
From Studio City, Ca
Sep 14, 2013
I have had the ht Anasazi for about a year now and while I like them, I am going to echo wills in that they are not exactly what I was looking for in a high top shoe. First though, I got them fairly early on and ended up with a slightly different version, apparently. Mine have onyxx, not c4, and are lacking the 510 logo on the top strap (which probably doesn't greatly hinder performance, though may
fuck with the radness of all my sweet mag shots...) They are grey, but are not especially stiff. At any rate, I will parrot will here in saying that for me, the Anasazi last does not lend itself to comfortable hands and up crack climbing. The asymmetry of the last means that almost regardless of sizing, the little toes will be bent. That said, I think these outshine the tc pro for thin crack and smearing applications, and are also more capable at toeing in to small pockets. However, I can't see the reason for a high top for these applications. Perhaps for those with weaker ankles these would be a great choice, but for someone looking for an all day crack climbing shoe, I would have to say the tc pro is a better choice. My 2 cents. -xan

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By Cultivating Mass
Sep 16, 2013
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Cool info, thanks for the feedback on these. Are some of you saying you've tried the new pinks? That's what it sounds like-

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By Stealthy
Sep 16, 2013
hey Sir-Chips,

notes on the anasazi VCS HT:

many have provided feedback here, but please note that some feedback is on previous versions in various stages of development. there have been many versions of this style in its development, and its hard to say what version some may be reviewing of providing feedback on. Many design and material changes have occurred in the shoes evolution, and all can be seen as improvements along the way to the version thats now in the market.

Created to be the ideal big wall freeclimbing tool and tested extensively by several 5.10 athletes, the feedback and changes have resulted in the current offering. Anasazi last, lined premium leather uppers, C4 outsoles, 3 strap vcs, midsoles, etc.

notes on the anasazi lace-up 2014 pinks

i have climbed in the new pinks and can say they are an improvement over the previous version that was out some 6 years ago. i have experience in the other anasazi models that have come since then as well, and can say that the new version is the best anasazi lace up yet. improved fit, especially in the heel (shape, volume, and slingshot tension), stealth high friction rands throughout, and all the power and precision the anasazi lace-up is know for.

i make these comments on how the shoes feel climbing classic Index granite face and cracks. terrain where i usually wear either Verdes or VCS C4. the sticky rands improve hold in thin cracks and rand smears in pin scars and flares. the powerful toe box holds fast on thin edges, and knobs, toe into pockets, and smedge and smear on pure friction and stems.

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 16, 2013
Stealthy wrote:
Will, Sounds like you did have an early version of the HT, totally different uppers, and different strap placement I believe.



Yep, that was it. The strap placement was definitely different, upper material too. In fact the strap placement was as much a deal breaker and why I sold them as anything else. Will be curious the see the new pinks. Any ETA?

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By Stealthy
Sep 17, 2013
Will,

Yeah the original strap set up was kinda chossy...big wide strap up top would bunch against the middle strap when flexing the foot. In that version I ended up cutting the upper strap off....still had material to protect the ankle bone....another friend ditched the straps completely and had a cobbler create eyelets for a custom lace version. Haha

The upper material on the solid yellow version was lined synthetic with a poly-technic finish to help with friction and durability...not as comfy, breathable, and supple as the current models lined leather.

Having used all 3 versions that have come out, the final/current is much more dialed. A more comfy Anasazi Vcs with added support and protection.

Just an FYI so folks know, there are 2 Anasazi VCS for men, the tan color has Onyxx rubber, the Blue has C4.

Kevin

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 17, 2013
Stealthy wrote:
there are 2 Anasazi VCS for men, the tan color has Onyxx rubber, the Blue has C4. Kevin


Missed the boat on the blue, had no idea it was even out there. Will add that one to the quiver for sure. That's one of my only beefs with the modern VCS, in cold weather I'd prefer c4 on them (and not via a sloppy resoled shoe)...problem solved.

That's what I get for not climbing with Miller in too long, out of the loop.

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By Stealthy
Sep 17, 2013
For sure Will! The VCS C4 is a classy boot No doubt. And there's few people as " in the loop" with fiveten as C. Miller.

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