Anasazi pink, verde and blancos

Can anyone tell me, from personal experience preferably, what the real difference is between the anasazi Verdes, Blancos and the new 2014 pinks? They're all lace up, is it stiffness, width, shape or just color? how many anasazi lace ups do there need to be?!?!

Looks to me (judging from the five ten website) like the Blancos and Verdes are done, replaced by the new pink.

Difference between the Verde and Blanco were rubber and rand tension. Blancos a little more rand tension and C4 instead of Onyxx. They may have had slight differences in midsole, seems like my verdes got soft/broke down a little quicker than the blancos...but that may have been mileage rather than any actual difference in midsole construction.

The Blanco is my favorite granite face shoe, and I like the heel cups on both those too, so am kind of anxious if they are discontinuing...might have to go stock up. Maybe Chris Miller will chime in with the lowdown.

EDIT: Here's a review of the new pinks, says the Blanco was stiffer and that it is discontinued.

And for pete's sake Redlands, stop discontinuing stuff your customer base really likes. A dozen new models of gimmicky junk every year, and discontinue the few that people love for specific applications. Sucks for me, the Blanco is exactly how stiff I want..looks like a stock-up binge is in order.

splitterchoss.com/2014/04/1…

Also it appears there was a blanco and a version 2 of the blancos. What's the difference? Is it that noticeable?

Thanks.

I just got a pair of the Pinks at the Redland's outlet. According to the people there, the pinks are softer than the Verde or Blanco.

The heel also fits a bit differently. My heels don't stick out much: they run nearly vertically from the sole of my foot to my calf. This means that most heels (particularly Five Ten's) fit pretty poorly, and pull off while doing heel hooks, even if the shoe it tight. The Pinks fit my heel better than any Five Ten shoe I've tried. Both the Verde's and Blanco's left a bigger air pocked behind my heel.

I loved the Galileo, which I always thought was the velcro version of the blanco, maybe not???

Anyways I now have 3 pair of Tenayas, they fit very similar to the galileos and lace up anasazi's with slightly better heel cups. The only downside (to some) is they use Vibram rubber, which I don't have a problem with.

I have the Masai in street shoe size, perfect for easier face climbs, Inti 1/2 size down from street size which is perfect for harder sends, and the Ra a full size and a half down (due to improperly labeling) which are perfect for bouldering in the milks.

I wish I would have stocked up on size 13.5 galileos when I had a chance. . .

Gallileo came out many years before the blanco, apparently designed by some euros for pocketed limestone...that's what they claimed.

Anyway, I stopped by the HQ today and the word was Blancos are discontinued. So I grabbed a few pair. Tried on the pinks and it is much softer, and has less rand tension. Seemed to me like even less rand tension than the Verdes and perhaps even a tad softer than the Verdes. So much for the killer sub vert granite face shoe. It's a way different shoe than the original pink with way, way less rand tension than those and a better heel (but still inferior to the blanco/verde heel for me).

Other developments, the Blue Anasazi velcros with the C4 will be discontinued in favor of just putting C4 back on the tan ones (they had C4 for years, then switched to Onyxx). They had some samples of the tans with C4, made in the USA. Sizing seemed a little off (were running big for size by about a 1/2, I'm normally a 9 in the tans and they felt like 9 1/2) but with samples you never know since they aren't full production.

Rogues have been back a little while, which is great because I love these things for the gym. Cheap and comfy.

The maroon guide shoe is an interesting one. Looks perfect for all day stuff. VERY stiff, gotta be the stiffest midsole in anything they make, but a relaxed fit like the old Huecos or coyotes. It won't substitute for the Blanco IMO because it's not precise enough and rand tension is basically non existent, but for all day below your limit trad cruising, guiding, etc it looks like a winner.

Will S wrote: Anyway, I stopped by the HQ today and the word was Blancos are discontinued. So I grabbed a few pair. Tried on the pinks and it is much softer, and has less rand tension. Seemed to me like even less rand tension than the Verdes and perhaps even a tad softer than the Verdes. So much for the killer sub vert granite face shoe.

Ahhh...noooo!! Damn it, I can't believe they are discontinuing it. Like you Will, I think that the Blancos are the beez neez on techy sub-to-vert granite. I will have to stock up I guess.

Gunks Jesse wrote:The verdes had onyxx rubber and the pinks have C4. Which does everyone prefer?

I've had everything resoled with C4. It's a nice all around rubber which holds up pretty darn well and sticks to most of the rocks I try climbing on.

Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote: I've had everything resoled with C4. It's a nice all around rubber which holds up pretty darn well and sticks to most of the rocks I try climbing on.

I had my tans Anasazi velcros resole to C4 and I noticed they lost some stiffness. I have thought they would be pretty similar to a verde in terms of stiffness but after the resole they feel soft.

Anyone else feel that way?

Seth Kane wrote:I've owned all three and in terms of stiffness blancos>verdes>pinks. I think the pinks are the best all around shoe of the three and the blancos the best for thin edging. The blancos seem to run narrower then either the verdes or the pinks, and the pinks have the best fitting heel (for me). The pinks have a little bit of ankle bone protection which is nice, and seem to jam (lower profile toe) and smear (softer) better then either of the others. Gallileos are between blancos and verdes in stiffness but are closer to the pinks in terms of fit. I haven't climbed in either the tan or blue Anasazi VCS or the anasazi guides so I can't comment on how those fit in. I prefer c4 to onyxx rubber, but it's not a deal breaker.

I'd echo most of this... I'd say the verde, velcro, and pink, are all about the same stiffness, with the blanco being quite a bit stiffer. The rand tension of the blanco gives it the most airspace out of all of them, the pink heel is quite a bit better, but still the worst part of the shoe. The low profile of the toe makes them really good at cracks, I can get jams and smears in on .5 size, which is about all I can ask of my toes.

I've had the following sizes (my foot is either a 10.0 or 10.5 in guide tennies)
9.0 velcros: comfortable but very good performance, another half size down would be more painful than helpful.
9.5 velcros & blancos: slightly better at cracks
10 pinkies: better than the 9.5s at crack climbing and smearing with little loss in edging

Gunks Jesse wrote:Any C4 dissenters or onyxx lovers?

The Onyxx seems to last quite a bit longer than C4 to me, but not as sticky. Maybe better for rough rock with good friction if you want your soles to last a while.

FWIW the new anasazis fit a bit differently than the old ones. I can only speak to the tan VCS's, but I was always a 10.5 in the old anasazi velcros (the tan ones). I ordered some 10.5s in the new tan VCSs and they are definitely bigger than the old ones. I might have to size down an extra 1/2 size. Not sure if this applies to the new pinks but buyer beware.

Mike McL wrote:FWIW the new anasazis fit a bit differently than the old ones. I can only speak to the tan VCS's, but I was always a 10.5 in the old anasazi velcros (the tan ones). I ordered some 10.5s in the new tan VCSs and they are definitely bigger than the old ones. I might have to size down an extra 1/2 size. Not sure if this applies to the new pinks but buyer beware.

So does the pink fit similarly to the old VCS?

Damn, they got rid of the quantum too! They were going to be my moderate sport shoes.

Gunks Jesse wrote:"Moderate sport shoes?" Do you have different shoes for everything? Do lots of people have different shoes for everything? I've a single pair of shoes, the side is blown out and I stitched and glued the leather back together several times. They get used for everything I climb because, ah-hmm, I can't even afford a new pair to replace the busted ones!

Pretty much. That's how I was able to buy a $80 cam from you that I know I'm never going to use! :wink:

Two quotes I was interested in:

"Mike McL wrote:
FWIW the new anasazis fit a bit differently than the old ones. I can only speak to the tan VCS's, but I was always a 10.5 in the old anasazi velcros (the tan ones). I ordered some 10.5s in the new tan VCSs and they are definitely bigger than the old ones. I might have to size down an extra 1/2 size. Not sure if this applies to the new pinks but buyer beware.

So does the pink fit similarly to the old VCS?"

I own lots of the old pinks and old tan VCS's and one pair of the new blue VCS and the fit is different because the heel on the blue VCS has less tension than the older tan VCS. I assume from Mike's comments that the new tans also have less heel tension compared to the old tans (which results in them feeling bigger)? I am due for another tan pair and want to try to find the older version if the new tans are different.

How do 5.10's fit compared to Miura Lace? How do they perform?

I wear a 39 Miura that is very tight at first and gradually becomes right and eventually becomes loose. I am looking for an edging shoe on 12b-13a vertical sport (or gear protected trad). I mention that because if you like them on 5.9, I can't really use that information. I am set for cracks and overhanging routes.

I have only ever worn one pink velcro, I wore it for a day and didn't hate the fit. It was so long ago I can't remember the size. I owned a pair of Teams a few years ago and loved them on steep routes, I can't remember the size of those either.

For performance at the approx level mentioned, would a VCS or a Lace up be better? What about the Galileo since I'd only be using them to edge?

Also, I'm only looking at the shoes available on STP . If I were going full retail, I'd probably just get more Miuras.

In addition to "how does the pink fit compared to old VCS", I also would like to know if

a) they changed the verde or blanco's sizing along with the VCS
b) does blanco and verde fit similarly?

I'm thinking about stocking up on these from STP.

I love Anasazi lasted shoes, but their sizing is super screwy, and makes me hesitate buying a pair on line. For example, I had the old Anasazi Velcros at 6.5, and they were perfect, so were the old style size 7 Pinks. Size 7 Blancos are just a smidgen too small, but 7.5 Verdes are a bit big. I also tried size 8.5 Arrowheads, and could not even get them on my foot, not even close. So, I too am curious how the new Pinks fit. My street size is 9.

Seth Kane wrote: Nicelegs, if you want them for hard vertical edging, blancos out of the anasazi line, hands down. No idea how they compare to miura laces though.

Agree with Seth here. Moreover, to add to his comment, the blancos are stiffer than Muira lace-ups by a fair margin. Plus they are not downturned so smedging on dimes is easier. For the life of me I can't figure out why Five Ten quit making the Blanco. I was really frustrated by this because climbing a full pitch of 5.13 granite vert is sooo much more pleasant when you can dime edge without fatigue. Sigh....

J. Albers wrote: Agree with Seth here. Moreover, to add to his comment, the blancos are stiffer than Muira lace-ups by a fair margin. Plus they are not downturned so smedging on dimes is easier. For the life of me I can't figure out why Five Ten quit making the Blanco. I was really frustrated by this because climbing a full pitch of 5.13 granite vert is sooo much more pleasant when you can dime edge without fatigue. Sigh....

So the blancos are like the old pinks? Now everyone is going to start hoarding them for their projects?

O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote: So the blancos are like the old pinks? Now everyone is going to start hoarding them for their projects?

Mmm, I think the blanco is a bit stiffer than the old pink, but I could be wrong.

And yes, I did hoard some blancos....they're sitting in my closet at home. :)