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Upper Freeway Wall
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Anacram T 
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Freeway T 
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Meaner than a Junkyard Dog T 
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Talking Fish, The T 
Totally Nuts T 

Anacram 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis & Rich Smith, 1981
Page Views: 2,000
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Caughtinside tossing out a green alien, moments be...

Description 

Start about 20' left of Cakewalk (5.8) by climbing past a solitary bolt into an arching, left-facing corner. Higher, steep and enjoyable moves lead past another bolt into a thin crack which leads to the top.

A great route which should not be missed if in the area, this climb will leave a favorable impression on you. Three stars out of five.


Protection 

2 bolts (3/8"), pro to 2.5"



Photos of Anacram Slideshow Add Photo
A view from below of the thin steepness.  Not much below 5.10 through that section.
A view from below of the thin steepness. Not much...
"Anacram". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Anacram".
Photo by Blitzo.
Anacram. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Anacram.
Photo by Blitzo.
Tony Bubb leads 'Anacram (10c)' at the Freeway Wall. Photo by a random stranger, 1/04.
Tony Bubb leads 'Anacram (10c)' at the Freeway Wal...
SO scenic yo
SO scenic yo
Comments on Anacram Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 7, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

After quite a tricky but well protected crux the upper crack has a way big feel to it.

Position, exposure, varied technique.

First time's a charm.

By Randy
Jan 28, 2003

An excellent climb; the rock has cleaned up well. Challenging for the grade; I would call it more 5.10c/d.

By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Nov 13, 2005

One of my new favorites. Great variety, interesting moves.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 14, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Good route. Two cruxes. First crux is well protected but harder at the second bolt. The second crux is the "mental" one.Towards the top of the crack, I fiddled for 15 minutes trying to get some gear higher than knee level to protect a tough move. Eventually I found a marginal RP in a flare - not the best piece but good enough to bust the move.

Like the other person indicated, this climb leaves an impression on you.

By tony grice
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Overlooked classic! Bring your captain crush hand for the crux lay back.

By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Jun 17, 2011

Jumped on this climb on a whim on the way back to the car... wowza. I thought I was gonna take a toss somewhere past the bolt for sure (had to charge pretty far past it to get a stance and gear- pumped!). Really, really good route. As noted, a tad hard at the grade. Be mindful of a hollow flake down low.