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North Face / North End
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Anaconda T,S 
Inferno, The 
Ryan's Inferno S 
Triple Exposure T,S 

Anaconda 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kor FFA Dunn
Page Views: 7,171
Submitted By: Dave Chenault on Oct 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Climber: Lauren Lee.
Photo: Andy Mann.
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  • Description 

    This routes climbs the obvious crack system in a vague corner on the NNW end. Most parties climb the first 60 feet at easy 5.10, but the 20 foot extension is excellent climbing. Fixed anchors for both. The second pitch looks heinous, a pigeon-shit encrusted slot with good cracks in the back.


    Protection 

    Many drilled pins are present, which should be supplemented/backed up with mid-sized nuts and small cams.



    Photos of Anaconda Slideshow Add Photo
    Jon keenly watches Ely as he climbs Anaconda.
    BETA PHOTO: Jon keenly watches Ely as he climbs Anaconda.
    Climber: Matt Bruton. <br />Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
    Climber: Matt Bruton.
    Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
    Anaconda from the West
    BETA PHOTO: Anaconda from the West
    Falon on the first pitch of Anaconda.
    Falon on the first pitch of Anaconda.
    North Gateway Rock from the North
    BETA PHOTO: North Gateway Rock from the North
    Josh at the crux.
    Josh at the crux.
    Crux.
    Crux.
    Falon and Steve on the King Swing!
    Falon and Steve on the King Swing!
    Abundant chalk on the right shows you the way to go.  About twenty feet up, move left.
    BETA PHOTO: Abundant chalk on the right shows you the way to g...
    Cam jammed in the 5.9 flake when my partner mistook it for a nut and shoved it farther in to get it out.... Him rapping.
    Cam jammed in the 5.9 flake when my partner mistoo...
    Anaconda all sewn up.
    Anaconda all sewn up.
    Comments on Anaconda Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 26, 2013
    By Matt Juth
    From: Evergreen
    Apr 28, 2004

    The extension is excellent. The second pitch is definitely adventurous, and dirty as stated. I guess it is par for the course as most deep Garden cracks go. The drilled angles are not inspiring.

    By Larry Shaw
    Jun 2, 2004

    The first part of the first pitch eats up small hexes. Pins after that to the anchors. Nice climbing.

    By BWpete
    May 8, 2005

    This climb is awesome, far more fun on lead. When going for the cross over, climb up and clip the pin, then downclimb a couple feet and cross over, this way you can protect the moves, and get in a coule extra moves. I found that just a little trad gear makes the climb a little more enjoyable and less frightining, a #7 BD nut for the runout to the first pin, 3.5 to cover just above the last pin, as it is hanging out there a bit.

    By Lordsokol
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 20, 2006

    This is easily the best climb in the Garden and rivals most in the state. It is sustained and smooth. You'll forget you are climbing on the Garden's normally rotten rock. The first part of the first pitch can be a little pumpy on lead, so save your energy for the upper part of the route and blast through this part quickly if you can.

    By Stewart M. Green
    May 11, 2006

    Anaconda now has new stainless anchors at both the lower and upper stations on the first pitch. Thanks to Brad Saren and Brian Shelton for jumaring up and replacing the old gear. The upper anchor has two bolts and one of the original pitons. The lower anchor is the same. Thanks to Climbing Mag and Petzl for donating the gear.

    By Stewart M. Green
    May 15, 2006

    Right Pete, we were certainly "scaring" the rock when those old pitons were removed. Ha. Good one. The rock was sooooo scared. Yep, Brian and Brad crowbarred them out. Now there are good safe anchors at both of Anaconda's belays, and climbers can breathe more easily up there...

    Have you ever removed an old piton from sandstone? Have you been going out and replacing all those old dangerous anchors at the Garden of the Gods with brand new stainless-steel state-of-the-art 1/2" bolt anchors? Hmmmm I didn't think so.

    As I wrote under your Crescent Corner post the other week, it's best to put up or shut up. I invited you then to be a part of the effort to update the GofG anchors but you, like everyone else on the sidelines who doesn't want to get involved, is willing to bitch and whine and moan and criticize rather than do something constructive.

    As far as the Anaconda anchors, they needed replacement. The scarring will disappear within a month or so through an on-going geologic process called EROSION.

    Many climbers have told me that those anchors needed replacement. Notably my long-time friend and great climber Jimmy Dunn, who just last week said, "Good, it's about time those anchors were replaced. You should also pull all the pitons too and replace those with bomber half-inchers. I get scared up there when I'm leading that thing and only clipped into 3 or 4 of the pins. I would come out and help you guys but it's my son's birthday that day so I can't." Now I certainly give a lot more credence to Jimmy's ideas about Anaconda's anchors than you or anyone else. I asked him how many times he's climbed it and he said, "Thousands. I've done it thousands of times." And he has, including the first free ascent of it with Earl Wiggins and John Sherwood.

    So as I wrote in Crescent Corner, if you want to fill the holes, if you want to be part of the effort, if you want to stop bitching and whining, then let us know that you want to work in a constructive and positive way to ensure that this fabulous local climbing area stays open in the future and that future climbers can safely climb, lower, and rappel from the fixed gear.

    If you want to fill in all the old piton holes in the Garden, then go for it. As of right now, I haven't come up with the right mixture to fill the holes or that has been approved by the COS Parks Department. Any kind of cement product or epoxy sets up too hard in the soft sandstone, so the plug is left sticking out as the surrounding sandstone erodes. Caulk and varies kinds of oil-based products are also inadequate. If you have suggestions, then by all means put them forward and we can test them and present them to the city as a viable way to fill the hundreds of holes. And you can certainly be at the forefront of that effort but starting with the 20+ holes on the first pitch of Angle Tangle's bolt ladder.

    Thanks again for Brian and Brad for getting out there and replacing those old anchors and for caring about the Garden of the Gods climbing experience and for doing something constructive. Kudos guys!!

    By Lordsokol
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 17, 2006

    I for one appreciate the efforts. The new anchors are great and much needed. I climbed the route again yesterday and the difference is huge. I think those "scars" will be gone by the end of next month at the rate that the Garden erodes, so I'm not too worried. Plus you can't even see the scars until you are right up on them. Thanks again, guys.

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jul 14, 2009

    Sweet climb. I submit that this is one of the best in The Garden. Solid rock, good gear placements, good movement and position... why go to Moab? And no rock scars that I could see. Thanks for those new anchors at the 60' mark. I know I couldn't have done the 11 extension, and appreciate having new, shiny objects to climb towards.

    By mountainmicah83
    From: Colorado Springs
    Oct 4, 2010

    Climbed on 9/30 The right anchor is missing. The left anchor is still solid, and then there is a bolt with no hanger up there with a nut, washer, and chock there. Someone really needs to put a hanger on the right. Great route for my first 5.10 trad lead though.

    By Ryan Sanders
    From: C Springs
    Mar 16, 2011

    The lower anchor now has a cold shut on the right bolt, thanks to whoever put it up. It is hard to see from the ground, but it is there.

    By Drew Thayer
    From: Durango, CO
    May 17, 2011

    2nd pitch is well worth the adventure, especially the left variation (main offwidth crack). You can climb this route with one 70m rope if you rap E off the summit into the notch and then rap off a hearty bush on the E side of the notch towards the main parking lot.

    By dancesatmoonrise
    Jul 25, 2011
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    "The lower anchor now has a cold shut on the right bolt, thanks to whoever put it up. It is hard to see from the ground, but it is there."

    You're welcome. But that probably wasn't the smartest decision. Our idea was to have all three pieces in the system - solid pin on the right, good bolt on the left, and the manky loose bolt below that we put the shut on. We put a new sling and quicklink on the right pin, so thus had all three equalized.

    Unfortunately, someone felt the need to remove the sling and quicklink, taking the solid pin out of the system, leaving only one solid bolt, and one crappy bolt, which is the way it was as of two weeks ago.

    What needs to happen, at minimum, in my opinion, is to install a chain and quicklink on the solid pin on the right to equalize with the solid bolt on the left. The loose bolt below (that now has the shut on it) probably needs to be removed and patched. I just have no idea what was behind pulling the new rust-colored sling and QL that put the pin into the system. Someone thinking they were helping? Outright theft? No idea, but the pin is solid and is not currently part of the anchor and should be, whereas the cold shut really should not be.

    By Ryan Chelstowski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jan 10, 2013

    Anchor update: I aid rope-soloed it this week, and the lower anchor is good w/ 2 newer bolts and a pin up right. Also the second anchor has 2 good newer bolts.

    By Kyle Rodman
    Mar 31, 2013

    Sometime in the last couple months this climb lost its top piton leading to a pretty sizable runout to the anchor. A #0.75 C4 worked for the crack next to where it had been. It is a good reminder to take a few pieces to back up those old drilled angles.

    Awesome climb, one of my three favorites (along with New Era and Montezuma's) in the park.

    By dancesatmoonrise
    Apr 24, 2013
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    I heard Anaconda will be closed soon, till September. Anyone know when? Is it still currently open?

    Thanks.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 24, 2013

    Dancesatmoonrise, calling 719.634.6666, they said North Gateway on the West side, Tourist Gully is closed up on the top and access to the top of North Gateway is closed. The East face is closed. The Tower of Babel of closed. Some routes on the low west side are open, like Cowboy Boot Crack. Anaconda is closed. There is posted signage. Hope that helps!

    By dancesatmoonrise
    May 5, 2013
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    Hey, Leo, thanks.

    By R Kil
    Aug 26, 2013

    We were up climbing Anaconda Thursday, and a ranger stopped by and told us Anaconda was off limits. He said that in years past the North and NW wasn't really enforced so wasn't bent out of shape, just told us to move when done. He said that it would probably open up in September but didn't have an exact date.

    Roger