Anaconda-Da-Vida  5.12c/d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12c/d [details] FA:  Mark Sprague 5/98 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  M Sprague on Jun 28, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Anaconda-Da-Vida, Baby (rhymes with the dreadful Iron Butterfly song) This technical route shares the same start as King Cobra and White Snake, pulling through a low small roof to a rest, then a tricky bulge onto the face. It then breaks left, following an angling seam. This section is thin, surprisingly pumpy and a little scary as you are angling out from your bolts. I heard a hold broke here, bumping the grade up a little since the FA. At the end of the seam, head straight up the face to tackle the dark bulge split by a curving crack, then up the final steepening face to the chains up right. I think the climbing is very good, but for some reason doesn't get many attempts, perhaps due to it's reputation for somewhat scary feeling thin and tricky climbing. You will need to catch it when things are dry as the top often seeps during the wet season.

Location 

Lower Orange Crush, on the Black Mamba wall, starting just left of that route. The start forks into 3 routes. This is the left branch.

Lower with a 60 m rope

Protection 

Sport, with a 2 bolt anchor. Bring a few longer draws and maybe a sling or 2. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea as the bottom can be sandy. 60 meter rope to be on the safe side. The route is longer than it looks.