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Anaconda-Da-Vida, Baby (rhymes with the dreadful Iron Butterfly song) This technical route shares the same start as King Cobra and White Snake, pulling through a low small roof to a rest, then a tricky bulge onto the face. It then breaks left, following an angling seam. This section is thin, surprisingly pumpy and a little scary as you are angling out from your bolts. I heard a hold broke here, bumping the grade up a little since the FA. At the end of the seam, head straight up the face to tackle the dark bulge split by a curving crack, then up the final steepening face to the chains up right. I think the climbing is very good, but for some reason doesn't get many attempts, perhaps due to it's reputation for somewhat scary feeling thin and tricky climbing. You will need to catch it when things are dry as the top often seeps during the wet season.
Lower Orange Crush, on the Black Mamba wall, starting just left of that route. The start forks into 3 routes. This is the left branch.
Lower with a 60 m rope
Sport, with a 2 bolt anchor. Bring a few longer draws and maybe a sling or 2. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea as the bottom can be sandy. 60 meter rope to be on the safe side. The route is longer than it looks.
Jun 6, 2013
I like Iron Butterfly. And I like this route. Another good but less popular one- shady in summer in the afternoon too. More d than c due to what (I think) was a hold breaking above the mantle ledge? Or maybe it always just a terrible crimp.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
6 days ago
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I think Anaconda-Da-Vita should be in the running for the best 12d at Rumney. It has it all--a technical start, heady climbing away from your bolt, an insecure clip, a hard crux, and pumpy steep climbing after.