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It starts in the middle cave that faces out into the harbor. The cave usually has graffiti in it. Stem up to the roof, under-cling the big slopey horn, reach for the two knobs, then slap the jug and hang on for a big swing. It's sort of reachy but also one of the best problems at Pirate Cove.
There's nice soft sand to land in, no pad required. But a spotter might be good because you get so horizontal at the crux.
|By Bruce Diffenbaugh|
Aug 7, 2008
There's a heel toe lock under the roof that is the key to this problem.It keeps your feet from peeling off when you go for the lip.
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 14, 2008
If you can't get the heel-toe, this problem is a lot harder than rated.
May 30, 2009
This is one of my favorite climbs, although just recently the big jug that you shoot for has broken off. Not sure what to rate it now, hahaha.
|By Patricio Chervin|
Mar 27, 2010
Anyone have any beta for finishing this problem now that most of the original holds are missing? any picture or videos would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Patrick.
|By T B|
Jun 23, 2012
rating: V2 5+
I broke off a hold over the lip many years ago. Had the heel/toe locked. Hold hit me in the face and pushed my bottom teeth through my lip (happy for a sandy landing)... still have the lip scar.
|By Christian Mercene|
Nov 24, 2012
rating: V5 6C
As stated key holds have been broken near the top. Recent local consensus of the problem is v5. Here is some beta of me climbing it :