An Icy Breath
5.7 C2 X
|283 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 220 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.7 C2 [details]|
|FA: ||Sam Lightner Jr, June 26, 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||faces northwest and then southwest|
|Submitted By: ||Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jun 26, 2008|
BETA PHOTO: The goods
Pitch 1 = Climb up the easiest line in the Dewey Bridge layer. There is no gear on this pitch and it is very loose. I thought it was about 5.7... though if you had bolts in front of you it might be easier. Watch out for the huge blocks up. There is a good half inch bolt next to a 3/4 inch crack to build an anchor from on the ledge.
Pitch 2 = Go up the obvious crack, clipping two fixed pieces at the start to reach the "A"frame. This is actually C1 plugging, but I gave it the "C2" cus if the flake shifts you are gonna get an entrada enema. Once through the crux coninue on wider pieces, mostly large hands. This would be good free climbing as the pitch is very solid (above the crux). There is the obligatory wide stuff in the middle and at the end. A good anchor exists at the saddle. 110 feet.
Pitch 3 = free climb on very rotten rock to a half inch bolt, then aid/free the remaining 20 feet to the summit on bolts.
Rap to the saddle and then to the ground.
Northwest facing corner of the spire.
two 60's, doubles on .5 friends to 2.5, then 3 #3, 6 #3.5, 4 #4, 3 #5, 2 #6
Sherman from the summit of The Grim Reaper
See, I was there. Lost World Butte in the backgrou...