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Behind Sweet Rock
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An Endless Journey 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b Hueco: V0- Font: 4- PG13

   
Type:  TR, Boulder, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b Hueco: V0- Font: 4- [details]
FA: Mike/Steve/Trevor/KC
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime/Evening
Page Views: 951
Submitted By: Dwook on Apr 12, 2010

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Here is the route enjoy!!!

Description 

This route is actually mixed over half a mile of scrambling climbing with short boulder moves and belly crawling...It has chimneys, tunnels, caves and giant flakes...This was an amazing find...It was stumbled upon just exploring the rocks behind Sweet Rock starting from the SW side heading east over several peaks. The end is spectacular with a 5.6/7 pg13 solo on a giant flake at the summit. During this exploration many variations exist along the way. Basically this might be a good option for the end of the day when you are done roping up. It might sound stupid but trust me its not.

Once you do this please comment...Its a very interesting scramble.

Location 

Go around the backside of Sweet Rock on the SW right side. Carefully go under the barbed wire and head left. From here you will see a giant easy slab just South East of the small valley with a weird looking bolder in the middle. On the very right side of this slab is a easy looking chimney about 15 feet high, climb this its fun. Once at the top head left and over the rock, you will see TR bolts etc. Then right before you can easily head down and left look right and you will see a giant tree against the rock. Down chimney climb, about 20 feet, the tree to get down...This is awesome and much fun. Once you get down keep trekking East up to the next slabbed face. At the top of this Slab you will see 2 giant boulders head for these with some easy 5.4/5.5 scrambling...Once here you must look down underneath the giant boulder...YES A TUNNEL, just big enough for a human to get through by crawling on your belly, this is hilarious and worth it. From here its an easy interesting descent going behind and right where you will see a small arch...Some short boulder moves will get you down. Now once here you will be in amazement when you will see a Giant cave just to the east. Head to the cave, once you are down looking at the cool giant cave head up left, out of the cave, with some boulder moves all V0. Scramble up the face, some 5.4 moves, looking up at a second cave higher up and left on the face...Once you reach up higher on the slab you will be able to traverse left to a weird looking giant flake, BE CAREFUL HERE...This is where you might want to put on your climbing shoes. Climb the flake which is around 25-30 feet off the ground its 5.6/7 and scary, but worth it. once here head up to the summit.

Protection 

No Gear!!! just your guide shoes or climbing shoes. Be careful the lichen is a bit sketch.


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By trevor ulmer
Apr 12, 2010

this route was absolutly awesome. you don't really need any gear, and if your a confident climber u should have no problem. its just a ton of fun what we did out there!
By RyanJohnson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 13, 2010

So this is some kind of nature hike?
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 13, 2010

Sounds a bit like the "Hidden Crevasse" (?) at Real Hidden Valley in Joshua Tree National Park.

Why is this route marked as chipped?
By Dwook
Apr 13, 2010

Yes its comparative to the Hidden Crevasse, In J Tree that impossible to find, that I have done several times on New Years, I would say its equally as cool. Its more of a Climb/Scramble...there really isn't any hiking involved most of the time your climbing and scaling slab's...We took 4 guys on it and it was just a blast. Sorry about the chipped marking it made me choose one type gotta fix it...I just love these types of journeys thought I'd share it with everybody. :> Plus there was some bolted stuff I was curious about that people have not identified.