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An Elephant Never Forgets
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A1 PG13
Avg: 0 from 2
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Routes in Apocalypse Walls
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An Elephant Never Forgets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13 |
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Apocalypse Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bad Seed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Captain Fingers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Corporal Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Good Earth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kate's Arete S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Serenity Now S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Supreme Onion Sacrifice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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They Come and They Go T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Bradley White 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,664 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Oct 21, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I thought I should post this climb although it has not been technically led. I soloed it on a top rope with harness rope knots and an ascender. Complicated to explain, a climbing workout to get up on 2 top ropes. The tree became involved as an anchor and posture to make drilling easier. Anyway the bolts are close together except for the first one is way out of reach. You'll need to climb 'They Come and They Go' to clip the first bolt. Then go back to the ground to start up it wary all of the time a short pendulum towards the off width would hurt.
The rock is weak and not torquing it much will preserve the hand and foot holds lowest on the wall. After that scenario, rest or go up and pass over a small overlap. The overlap top is where the complexity of choices begins at the third bolt. The climb can be done left or right? At this bolt energy can be wasted away and I think it can be done both ways. It can be very difficult left or possibly not difficult right depending on how you approach it to what you do best. Hint, How would you approach an Elephant? Right on or take a left. The bolt is up and left. Going right, means going higher up than the bolt and not clipping it down left of you. Trad gear up in the off width higher than the second and third bolt is recommeneded. No room fors screw ups on this climb. Left is excellent rock and there's something of nothing to hold onto. Going up and left is not for me anymore, It looks radical and safer than going right. No way I can do the up and left way. I'll try to lead it right. I might get up the left side on a top rope?
The rock is weak and not torquing it much will preserve the hand and foot holds lowest on the wall. After that scenario, rest or go up and pass over a small overlap. The overlap top is where the complexity of choices begins at the third bolt. The climb can be done left or right? At this bolt energy can be wasted away and I think it can be done both ways. It can be very difficult left or possibly not difficult right depending on how you approach it to what you do best. Hint, How would you approach an Elephant? Right on or take a left. The bolt is up and left. Going right, means going higher up than the bolt and not clipping it down left of you. Trad gear up in the off width higher than the second and third bolt is recommeneded. No room fors screw ups on this climb. Left is excellent rock and there's something of nothing to hold onto. Going up and left is not for me anymore, It looks radical and safer than going right. No way I can do the up and left way. I'll try to lead it right. I might get up the left side on a top rope?
Protection
5 bolts and the bolts can be backed up with cams or hexs in the off width right of te climb. I'm so inclined to do so. The second bolt seemed to take more turns to tighten than the others did. I put the third bolt close to it. Eye bolts in the lower rock would strengthen the protection on this climb.
4 Comments