An Act of Strange Boar
|533 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11a [details]|
|FA: ||Jon Nelson (with Derek Pearson and Eric Hirst) 2/12/2012 |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012|
Jon leading on the first ascent, 2/12/2012
[The full name of this route, including its future extension pitches, is actually "An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch."]
Strange Boar is the spectacular dihedral just R of Baby Tapir and just L of Rice Krispies. It's reminiscent of Slow Children, but thinner and more sustained.
If you have pudgy fingers, you may find this route to be a lot harder than 11a. Daintier folks, however, may think it's only 5.10. Either way, climb it. It's a pretty dang classic line.
See Baby Tapir overview photo. Start at a comfortable ledge (2 bolts) a short distance above the trail.
Pro to 1". Mostly thin cams and small/medium stoppers. A single 60m rope will get you down.
|Comments on An Act of Strange Boar
|By Jon Nelson|
Mar 26, 2012
My calf muscles started to blow out before my arms, but the arms also almost blew out at the hand pod near the top. It's not very long, but good luck finding good rests. It has a nice ledge at the top to sit down and belay your second.
If you can do this line, you ought to be able to cruise Slow Children.
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.11a PG13
Super fun line!
Apr 24, 2012
Perfect climbing link with next pitch for a rope stretching masterpiece