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The Amphitheater
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5.9, The 
Chocolate Chicken Pot Pie 
Cuba and Nova's Block Party 
Dribble Glass 
Fear of the Dark 
Mas y Mas Moss 
Mr. Dubious 
Nendo Dango 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 303
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Aug 28, 2011
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Showing just how steep the upper headwall is. Wild...


Named AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) because a hard-core sport climber claimed he got nose bleeds and headaches from being two pitches up. You can avoid AMS by doing it in a single pitch and either runnering the mid-way anchor with a long sling or by clipping the first bolt on the headwall and then unclipping the anchor. Fun jug haul on steep rock. The first half to the mid-way anchor is mungy 5.8, but it's worth it for the fun climbing above.


The second route from the left side of the headwall. Shares an anchor with Poligrip.


Bolts. About 11, depending on if you clip and what you skip (possible to skip on lower section and mid-way anchor).

Photos of AMS Slideshow Add Photo
All the routes on the headwall. If you're going to tick all three, it's worth staging at the mid-way anchor, otherwise take some long runners and do each in a single pitch. It works well to clip the first bolt on the headwall and then unclip the anchor (consider taking lockers).
BETA PHOTO: All the routes on the headwall. If you're going to...
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Other than Pogue's Arete, this is the most overhanging 5.11 I've climbed in NM.