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Indecent Exposure Buttress
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Amplified Heat S 
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Amplified Heat 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Head and friends
Season: No winter sun!
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009

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  • See notes for Hueco Tanks Access MORE INFO >>>
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    The name Amplified Heat applies to the first pitch. This is one of the best elevens on the front side.

    Approach by walking the road past the Mushroom Boulder restrooms and following a trail into the Deliverance Boulders. Climb left, along the base of the wall, up to the start of Tree Crack. Tree Crack is the big corner between Sea of Holes and Indecent Exposure. Start from the nice sandy belay cave for Tree Crack and Sea of Holes. Amplified Heat is the second bolted line right of the Tree Crack. The line of brown huecos next to the crack, with a first bolt way up, is Eternal Apples, 5.11+.

    When looking up at Sea of Holes from the belay cave, you'll have your back to the first moves of Amplified Heat. The fixed pin is visible from the ground.

    Start by aiming right and then back left to the fixed pin, 5.7r. The pin is a soft iron blade only half in. Next, tricky moves left to the first bolt, 5.9. The easy way up to bolt #2 is out right. A blind reach back left to the second bolt makes for a wild on-sight; 5.10+, almost "r". Closer bolting and fun, steep, climbing lead up to bolt #6 and the start of the crux slab. Approach the last bolt from the right, 5.10+. The psychological crux is pulling up rope to clip the last bolt. The hardest move is tip toeing left past the last bolt until you can reach a good edge about five feet up and left, 5.11b.

    The easiest second pitch is called Amplified Apples; 5.10+, three bolts. It climbs up the line of giant Huecos just right of Tree Crack. Other head-wall finishes to the right are harder.

    Protection 

    Originally led with two bolts. The direct finish, past bolts #6 & #7 was called "Straight to Hell". Now the route is all fixed; one pin and seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. However, considering that the second bolt on Desperado broke too easily, here is some back-up and pre-inspection beta.

    The fixed pin can be backed up with .5 Camalot in the hollow flake below. In the seam above the pin there is a better, but harder-to-place, black (smallest) alien. Shoulder length slings on this first nest of gear help.

    The first bolt looks to be a 1/2" Rawl five-piece, usually stronger than the more common 3/8" wedge bolts. But it does seem a bit too hammered. Your waist will be about seven feet up right of the bolt when reaching left for the hidden hold that gets you to bolt #2.

    The sixth bolt, protecting the run out slab, can be backed up too. Small cams can be put in an unseen corner, just left of the bolt #6.

    The last bolt and 5.11 slab can be dodged by moving left from bolt #6. Also run out, but easier with the hardest move by the bolt. After moving left and pulling onto the easy slab, easy climbing leads up right to the belay. This escape was used in the past to avoid the Straight to Hell slab, before the Phase III bolts were added. You won't be able to clip the last bolt doing this dodge.

    A pre-inspection top rope can be set up by cleaning the first pitch of Sea of Holes, then lowering until it is possible to step across to an unprotected, 5.4, slab traverse across to the Amplified Heat anchor. Once across the slab and clipped into the anchor, go off belay and pull all the rope through the Sea of Holes anchor. Then thread the Amplified Heat anchor, go back on belay, and lower (or rap). Tree route can be used too, but this way can be harder to clean and follow.


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