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Amphitheatre
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l'Amphithéâtre 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Claude Lavallée, Bernard Poisson, 1958
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: Luc on Jun 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: the left facing wall near the top of the climb

Site is under the Parc Régional de Val-David Val-Morin MORE INFO >>>

Description 

1. Cross slab (little to no pro) and mantle up ledge on the left end. follow ledge to the right and climb up the thin cracks to a mantle on the next ledge.
2. Climb up to a small roof/corner with a crack in the back, sloping ledge to the right, get up on ledge (crux) and traverse right to sloping ledge with a big crack.
3. traverse right to corner (exposed) and (Variation) keep traversing right to last vertical crack and head up over a ledge to the top of the cliff.

Location 

Right end of the amphitheatre, start off on the ledge just left/under Ben's Roof.
Rap down double ropes the overhanging amphitheatre (amazing) or do 2 rappels off the right ledge (hanging rap bolts).

Protection 

Protect your second!!!!
big pieces are nice to have on the second and third pitches.


Photos of l'Amphithéâtre Slideshow Add Photo
Ampitheatre traverse
BETA PHOTO: Ampitheatre traverse
Amphitheatre
BETA PHOTO: Amphitheatre
just an aesthetic picture from the top of the firs...
just an aesthetic picture from the top of the firs...

Comments on l'Amphithéâtre Add Comment
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By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
May 22, 2014

can a climber be lowered if they can't finish the climb?
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal
May 22, 2014

It's pretty complicated to lower a climber,
P1 not much pro to lower off.
P2 starting the second pitch, if you can't make the shelf move to the traverse, you can lower/back climb-clean to the belay on the left, passed that point the going is easy to the belay on the angled ledge (large cams) where you could rap from leaving gear (there may be a bong there but BACK IT UP!!!!). I've already found booty gear here ;o)
P3 Once you start on the right face, you may be able to reach the route's starting ledge if you have enough rope or the hanging Rap Anchor on that face.
By Mike McLean
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Luc: Can you draw the line in the photo? It seems pretty intricate and easy to get lost.
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal
May 23, 2014

I'd love more pics of the area! I traced it out as best I can.
By Mike McLean
May 23, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Great! I had actually always thought it traversed more tot he left.

I'll try to remember to get some pictures when I'm out there next.
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jun 4, 2014

I just climbed it, I must say that the route finding was quite tricky. Looking at the photo now I can't even find the path I took. When I climbed it, I wound up in a place that did not seem like a 5.7 or 8 exit at all and that I doubted I could even climb (exiting a little corner roof with cracks in all the corners on the center wall). After a bunch of deliberation we kind of figured out where I should go. In the end, a really thin flake was a distinguishing feature, I had to climb up/top out/ mantle above the little flake onto a ledge. The crux in my version of the climb was topping out/mantling above the little flake (basically 1 move but with a scary fall if the gear popped).

Beta warning: The final crack on the left facing wall was superb. I used 2 #4 bd camalots and 1 #3, as well as a large nut.

This climb was scary with regards to dealing with height, particularly because most of the climb was traversing and the fall potential to end up below the route was scary.
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal
Jun 5, 2014

Yup, that's the crux, weird shoulder dislocating fist jam around the corner while mantling onto that sloping block, once on the block, you have the horizontal crack overhead to protect and grab onto while traversing.
Try it wet ;o)
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jun 6, 2014

There was also a piton just above the crux, actually I was able to pull on it while topping out.
By Mike McLean
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Luc, I'm curious why you rated this 5.7; the guide book puts it at 5.8. I just did Michael Ward and that was a hard 5.8 (the start), so I'm wondering if you're just re-adjusting based on other 5.8's in the parc.
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal
Jun 30, 2014

Mike, it's my impression of how hard the climbing is on this route.
I'm used to old skool ratings, Ampitheatre isn't all that hard, it's just exposed, especially the two shelf moves on the first pitch, the rest is all well protected.
Anyone can submit their rating for the climb to provide a consensus.