Amphitheater Rock Climbing
Mummy Buttress in the fall.
The word "spectacular" could have been coined just so you could describe the Amphitheater. Combine long, moderate multi-pitch climbing, high-quality rock, fantastic exposure and take-your-breath-away views, and you've got some of the best climbing North Carolina has to offer. The Mummy and The Daddy are two of the highlights of the Amphitheater; both are must-do routes even if your lead level is much higher.
Getting to the base is a long, hard slog down a steep descent gully, so most climbers rack up before starting down. Stow your pack and other non-essential stuff at the big flat rock near where the gully starts (ask someone who's been there), then retrieve it on the walk-off from the top of the climb.
From the Table Rock parking lot, head south through the campground and along the ridgeline trail. Continue past the Chimneys and past the first cut-off trail to the right (this leads to North Carolina Wall). Watch for a white quartz rock on the trailside and take the cut-off trail to the right. Continue down this trail as it steepens and look for a split-off to the left near a large flat rock. This turns into the descent gully; downclimb this steep gully to the base of the Amphitheater. The Mummy Buttress is to your left, the Prow and Open Book to the right.
Weather station 8.3 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Amphitheater
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Amphitheater
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Amphitheater:
The Prow 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
The Mummy 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
The Daddy 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Turkey Beard 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Amphitheater
The Daddy 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b NC
: Linville Gorge
Long, steep and exposed. For the east this is a big route for the grade.The second and last pitches are the best. The first pitch is so-so, the third pitch is short, and the fourth pitch is a route finding conundrum.But the views are amazing, the rock is solid. The belays are all natural and the top out is absolutely fantastic.I was so frazzled after leading this that I had to back off a 5.5 later that day.This is definitely a classic route....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Cameron Sumpter
From: Lander, WY
Mar 17, 2012
as on 3/14/12 the rap station was in fine shape. looks like its been beefed up with two more individual lines of static line. 1 mallion and 1 aluminum rap ring are on the station.
By Nick Byrd
Apr 16, 2012
Just made my first trip to the Amphitheater last week (April 2012) and the hike in is long but the guide book (Select Climbs in NC) nails the approach. Getting out from the Mummy Buttress is another story. Hike your way back to the east and toward the waterfall (not a heavy waterfall). Take the trail that leads to the HIGH GROUND!!! There is a trail that goes under the falls and it is treacherous. You also have to do some minor climbing to get out, unless we were just really lost. 1 hour and 15 minutes to get in... about 1 hour and 45 mins to get out. Rock was shaded until about 2PM.
Oct 2, 2012
So we hiked to the Amphitheater to climb "The Prow." not easy to find actually quite disappointed at the guide book. If you come to a point where the trail opens up at a rocky some what flat point, with very large boulders, and the trail turns right, you've gone too far.
Oct 23, 2015
Re approach: if you rap the gulley between the mummy buttress and the main wall as mentioned in the North Carolina Selected Climbs book, I don't recommend using the rap station built on the SMALL rock at the edge of the drop off. There is a reliable tree a few feet above the rock and this is much safer. Should be possible with a 60m rope. Also watch for the rope getting stuck as you pull.
The Daddy was awesome. Highly recommend.
Rap anchor rock. Smaller than it appears. Use the tree above.
From: Winston-Salem, NC
6 days ago
So, it took me two attempts to get the approach to the mummy buttress gully correct. I followed the instructions in the book...it turns out the Reggae wall is not in fact the back wall of the amphitheater with the waterfall near the top. It is a smaller wall you cannot see until you are down below it. If you come to an overlook with a "gully" on your right with a 10 foot wall near the top of the descent...keep going. There is a steep gully even further back that will take you around and back towards the "slot canyon" gully at the mummy buttress proper.