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Routes in (u) Red Wall
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A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Animal Farm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Orgasmophoria S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peking T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ride The Lightning S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Danny Gates & Steve Strauch 1970 |
| Page Views: | 3,360 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | corvegas on Feb 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
One of the best moderates routes on the Red Wall. Rather run out on the last pitch. A great alternitive to super slab or moscow when theres crowds, if your solid on run out 5.7.
P1 - 5.5 - Start With the first pitch of super slab.
P2 - 5.7 - From the belay work up a short 20 ft run out to where a crack system heads up and through a small buldge. Belay atop bulge at stance with .5 - 1.5 inch gear. Or belay a little higher at small ledge off an old fixed pin and some tricky aliens behind a small flake.
P3 - 5.7 - Head straight up from the belay on runout climbing when possible work left to find some good gear, then ascend the light colored corner to the bolted anchors attop the wall.
Rap with double ropes or do tricky walk off.
P1 - 5.5 - Start With the first pitch of super slab.
P2 - 5.7 - From the belay work up a short 20 ft run out to where a crack system heads up and through a small buldge. Belay atop bulge at stance with .5 - 1.5 inch gear. Or belay a little higher at small ledge off an old fixed pin and some tricky aliens behind a small flake.
P3 - 5.7 - Head straight up from the belay on runout climbing when possible work left to find some good gear, then ascend the light colored corner to the bolted anchors attop the wall.
Rap with double ropes or do tricky walk off.
Photos
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