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Amphetamine Grip 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Danny Gates & Steve Strauch 1970
Page Views: 934
Submitted By: corvegas on Feb 4, 2007
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Description 

One of the best moderates routes on the Red Wall. Rather run out on the last pitch. A great alternitive to super slab or moscow when theres crowds, if your solid on run out 5.7.

P1 - 5.5 - Start With the first pitch of super slab.

P2 - 5.7 - From the belay work up a short 20 ft run out to where a crack system heads up and through a small buldge. Belay atop bulge at stance with .5 - 1.5 inch gear. Or belay a little higher at small ledge off an old fixed pin and some tricky aliens behind a small flake.

P3 - 5.7 - Head straight up from the belay on runout climbing when possible work left to find some good gear, then ascend the light colored corner to the bolted anchors attop the wall.

Rap with double ropes or do tricky walk off.


Location 

Begins with the first pitch of super slab.


Protection 

Gear to 3"



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By The Grit
From: PDX
Sep 17, 2008

Four stars my ass. There are way better 5.7 climbs at Smith that don't get four stars. The location and views are good, but the climbing is mediocre at best and the pro is worthless.