Amore Eel 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Mark Sprague 2006 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Dec 9, 2008 |
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start of Amore Eel on a cold day in may
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Description A fun new addition and a good warm up for the other harder routes in this general area. The crux is pretty steep but breif then you get a rest and cruise to the top.
Start in the corner where Hassig's Libido starts. Stick clip the high first bolt and climb the Hassig's corner for a few moves then move left in to the crux section. Under-clings lead to a good layback that gives you the reach to get the next bolt and a hand on the ledge above. Throw a heel hook and mantel to a pretty good stance or a really good knee-bar. move a little left and climb easy rock up a layback corner and some quartz face climbing to the anchor.
Location The left most bolt line at Triple corners.
Protection 4 bolts to anchors.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Dec 9, 2008
| I'm unfamiliar with Hassig's Libido. Any description for that route? More importantly, any other description of where this one is located? Is it on the other side of the arete with the 12's? I'm looking forward to see what it's all about. :) |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 10, 2008
| oh yeah you dont have the old guide book...sorry...
its at the left side of the buttress left of Man With the Hueco... |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 6, 2009
| Hassig's starts in the nice yellow corner left of Blues for Mowgli. Hassig then placed a pin in the bulge up and right. Unfortunately that line through the bulge kind of feels contrived to me, but it was a test piece for the time. |
By twellman
Jul 19, 2009
| Be careful of the tree behind and underneath you when clipping the 2nd bolt... if you fall backward at all, it might be in your path.
Otherwise, a fun route. Power crux, and fun un-rumney-like quartz at the top. Well done, Mark. |
By S. Neoh
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| Sweet short climb. Same grade as Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic (whatever that is). 10a and 2.5 stars to me. Fun route. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 9, 2011
| Neat route with some cool climbing. The quartz at the top was a pleasant surprise. Our band of merry men (and Nicole) decided to scamper up to the anchors above and take in a few more feet of sunny slab - a little extra rope drag. For a route that I've walked by and never noticed for years, a fun experience! |
By thomasg
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| Stick clip and second bolt are sorta sketch. Otherwise, don't top rope this. The trees are mean and the swing keeps you out. |
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