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Amnesia 
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Amnesia 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1100', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FKA: Jason Urasky, Brian Scoggins, 8/16/2004
Season: Summer
Page Views: 496
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Aug 7, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Amnesia follows the red line.

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Description 

Starting below a v-shaped chimney (see photograph), climb up, then right to the base of a left facing dihedral with a big roof at half height. Belay. Go up and left towards a ledge, following the lowest of 3 left leaning cracks. Belay at the ledge. Again, follow the crack to the best belay available before encountering the right edge of a huge dihedral. Turn a small roof (crux) to get out of the dihedral, and follow a trough up and left to nice ledge on the other side of the pillar that may or may not have tat on a horn. Belay. Climb up the arete until it is possible to move back right onto the slab. This entire slab sounds hollow, so consider your pro carefully. Climb to a broad grassy ledge (known as University Avenue), and belay. Go up and left into a gulley, and climb the gulley to the summit. A belay is not really necessary for the traverse across University Avenue, but the exposure and loose turf may lead your second to demand it.


Location 

Sundial Slab. Best approached from the Mirror Lake Picnic Ground, then scrambling north from there.


Protection 

A single set of cams from black alien to #2 camalot. Also, a single set of nuts. Many long slings.



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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 7, 2011

I'm still not entirely confident that this was a first ascent. I encountered tat after the crux pitch, but I'm not certain if that was a bail anchor or a belay on our route, or another. Unfortunately, most of the recent documentation for the area has focused on the Diamond Face, while other faces with better climbing remained largely ignored.