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Amidst Difficulty Lies Opportunity
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Jebel Kharaz
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Amidst Difficulty Lies Opportunity T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Res von Känel and James Garrett, 14 November 2006 |
| Page Views: | 674 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Feb 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing
Details
As of May 2022, the entry fee to Wadi Rum was 5JD/person. The alternative to paying the entrance fee is to buy a Jordan Pass. If you get the Jordan Pass before you arrive in Jordan, your US visa fee ($56 US) is waived and the Jordan Pass allows access to places like Petra, Shobak Castle, etc.
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
Description
The route follows the very obvious wide appearing dihedral that continues to the top of the formation/tower. This seemed to us to be the FA of this tower as no other signs of a previous ascent were found.
From the car 3rd class up some slabs to the base of the dihedral where it steepens. Belay here.
Pitch #1: A very wide but straight forward right facing slot climbs to a two-bolt belay. Initially climbed only using very wide Camalots and running it out, we returned and placed 4 bolts on this very difficult to protect yet awesome first pitch. 5.9, 40m.
Pitch #2: Continuing up the now super wide crack system persuaded us to climb an exposed 5.9 face out left. We left a piton fixed here that offers some protection. Reach a ledge, then climb back into the wide slot and past two bolts and a thread eventually reaching a hand crack to a two-bolt belay on a nice ledge. 5.10, 50m.
Pitch #3: Climb a left facing dihedral to a difficult roof and then face climb to a ledge and belay. 5.10, 30m.
Pitch #4: Climb a left facing to a right facing dihedral to a two bolt belay. 5.6, 30m.
Pitch #5: Scramble to the top of the tower. 3rd class, 40m.
Return to the two bolt belay on top of Pitch #4, and rappel the low angle spur to where it is possible to walk off to the sand flats.
From the car 3rd class up some slabs to the base of the dihedral where it steepens. Belay here.
Pitch #1: A very wide but straight forward right facing slot climbs to a two-bolt belay. Initially climbed only using very wide Camalots and running it out, we returned and placed 4 bolts on this very difficult to protect yet awesome first pitch. 5.9, 40m.
Pitch #2: Continuing up the now super wide crack system persuaded us to climb an exposed 5.9 face out left. We left a piton fixed here that offers some protection. Reach a ledge, then climb back into the wide slot and past two bolts and a thread eventually reaching a hand crack to a two-bolt belay on a nice ledge. 5.10, 50m.
Pitch #3: Climb a left facing dihedral to a difficult roof and then face climb to a ledge and belay. 5.10, 30m.
Pitch #4: Climb a left facing to a right facing dihedral to a two bolt belay. 5.6, 30m.
Pitch #5: Scramble to the top of the tower. 3rd class, 40m.
Return to the two bolt belay on top of Pitch #4, and rappel the low angle spur to where it is possible to walk off to the sand flats.
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