BETA PHOTO: From this parking lot, walk in the direction of th...
A really cool and fun crag with southern exposure which makes it great for cooler weather. The names of the routes are also for the most part in English!
The climbing is a mixture of pockets and crimps. The left crag is about 10m tall while the right crag is up to 22m. In total there are 13 routes and 1 boulder problem, and the majority of the routes are 5.11.
Drive to Gößweinstein. From there drive to Behringersmühle and stay in the direction of Bayreuth, but before you leave Behringersmühle you'll see a large parking area on the right. Park here and hike in the direction of Tüchersfeld. After 350m (about 100m after the last house) there's a path on the left leading up to the crag. You first come to the left wall, and keep following the path to get to the next wall after about 50m. The map and GPS coordinates indicate the location of the parking lot.
Climb up easy rock to clip the sling, then more easy rock to clip the first bolt. The crux is after the second bolt and consists of moving off some small crimpers to reach some better holds and clipping the third bolt. From there you should continue straight up (or hold slightly to the left) to the fourth bolt, but it felt to me like the route naturally led me to the right to the blue bolt you see in the picture. After the fourth bolt, continue up to a good stance and the anchor....[more]Browse More Classics in International