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American Wet Dream T 
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American Wet Dream 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Clevenger, Accomazzo, McCabe, and Teske- 8/74
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 1,696
Submitted By: snowhazed on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the base out by the road. ...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Every belay is at a ledge, several HUGE. The route staircases left. Technical crux is crack switch to start the 3rd pitch. Fourth pitch has about 15 feet of 10a protected by a bolt at the bottom, and horrendously flexing flakes above that. A fall here would smack you on a slabby ledge. Tops out with some standard 5.7R slab.

Location 

Starts in some water funnels that lead to an obvious 5.9 hands bulge. After 5th pitch head up 4th class for a bit then descend left down ledges.

Protection 

.3 to 3 inches. Belay at top of third is bolted.


Photos of American Wet Dream Slideshow Add Photo
My good friend Keith Hancock having fun on AWD!
My good friend Keith Hancock having fun on AWD!
Josh F. on the first pitch of American Wet Dream
Josh F. on the first pitch of American Wet Dream
Josh F. on the third pitch of American Wet Dream.
Josh F. on the third pitch of American Wet Dream.
Taken from the bolted belay at the beginning of pi...
Taken from the bolted belay at the beginning of pi...
Route Overlay American Wet Dream
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay American Wet Dream

Comments on American Wet Dream Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 4, 2015
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jun 22, 2009

Yesterday my man Henry fished in a damn good purple c3 on the left side of the 10a r corner- about a body length above the bolt- making it much less runout.
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 4, 2009

Pitch one has some cool crack moves over a small bulge. Pitch two, though short, seemed to have the most technical moves. Third pitch is sustained but well-protected--you can place a medium-sized nut way above your head before the crux. The "R" pitch was neither dangerous, difficult, or scary compared to the rest.
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 27, 2009

this route is so much fun. Highly recommended and safe with modern gear.
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 27, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Sweet climb! More like 5 separate climbs in a row.

Personally, the R rating seemed out of place. There was some adequate gear at the corner if you had some small cams.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Purple C3 perfectly protected the move above the bolt, as advertised above.

This route is not runout, with the exception of the loooonng 5.7 slab on the last pitch.

The 10b changing corner to wide hands pitch is definitely the true crux of the route, and offers significantly harder and more sustained climbing than any other pitch.

Descent was easy - just go waaaaay far looker's left before switching back. In general, follow the trail of crushed manzanita!
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Jun 28, 2012

R rating is BS. The section above the bolt is maybe 5.7, and you get solid medium gear only a few moves above the bolt.
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Jul 13, 2015

Adventurous route that will test mid 5.10 leaders - it did me!

Metolius 00/0 offset fits perfectly above the bolt on P4. IMHO it's quite a bit harder than 5.7 until the next good gear!

The 10b corner move felt easy compared to the finger tip corner of P2 and the finger tip layback of P3. Both protect well, but getting in gear definitely adds to the strenuous factor.
By Tennis Pro
Aug 24, 2015

Pitch three has a few sections of fist jamming after the crack switch. I found it easier to layback the widest sections of that pitch using good knobs on the right face. A fantastic pitch!
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
40 mins ago
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R

A more specific grade for this climb would be "5.10b then 5.7 R". There is no 5.10 R climbing on this route, so long as you're comfortable leading the 5.7 R friction/knob slab final pitch (similar to the topout-pitch on Stately Pleasure Dome's South Crack, but *much* shorter), don't be scared away by this terrific and nearly road-side route! If driving east from Tenaya Lake toward the TM campground, the closest parking is probably the slightly-undefined but safe pull-out on the right, directly after passing the main Tenaya Lake parking lot. From there, walk east up the road (toward the TM campground) 2 minutes and cross over to the dome side where you should be able to match up the excellent route overlay photo already submitted here by another user.

As long as you have decent hand/fist-jamming and liebacking technique for a couple short sections on p1/3/4, there are only ~three *brief* cruxes on this route as a whole - two delicate and one a bit burly:
  • The finger-lock/smear moves in the main crack on p2 (delicate)
  • The "changing corners" bit low on p3 (bit burly)
  • The high-reach crimps low on p4 (delicate)
The smallest three x4 offsets were bomber in protecting a couple of them.

Although involving a good bit of traversing between pitches, the line does follow the natural weaknesses of the face, and thus doesn't feel contrived as you might feel a typical route with this sort of overall line to be.
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