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Wall of Confusion
Routes Sorted
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American Sportsman S 
Big Damage S 
Desert Pickle S 
Fear and Loathing, III S 
Makulu S 
Promises in the Dark S 
Resin Rose T 
Runaway, The S 
Sudden Impact S 
Super Guide S 

American Sportsman 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Boone Speed and Bill Boyle 1988
Page Views: 1,693
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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Jeff Laina Climbing American Sportsman. Jan.1992.


Again, hard at the bottom and easier as you go up. A bit of a runout on slab at the top, but just keep it together and you'll be fine.


2nd from the left


about 5 bolts to chains

Photos of American Sportsman Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Boyer cruising the top
Matt Boyer cruising the top
Elizabeth Bandy on American Sportsman. 05/29/11.
Elizabeth Bandy on American Sportsman. 05/29/11.
on lead
on lead

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By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route makes a fine warm up for the harder routes on the Wall of Confusion. There are two bolts next to each other about 15 ft from the top of the route, skip these, and continue up an easy slab to the chains. A stick clip for the first bolt is a good idea on this one, as it is a way up there.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 7, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

On 12/7/10, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the 3rd pro bolt on this route with a 1/2 x 2.75" SS 5-piece. Two extra bolts were removed and the holes patched.

On 1/27/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the anchor bolts on this route with 1/2 x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with quicklinks and rings.