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The Land Beyond
Routes Sorted
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Alice Does Wonderland S 
American Psycho S 
Beagle S 
Black Arrow S 
Frodo S 
Gandolf S 
Hoggle S 
Incredible Journey S 
Lord of the Ring S 
Lucky Number S 
Mr. Baggins S 
Servant of the Secret Fire S 
Smaug S 
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Soft Start S 
Something Lethal S 
Variation S 
Where the Thrush Knocks S 
Yo La Tango S 

American Psycho 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Jacobson
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An easy start passing the first two bolts leads to a hard series of moves on small pockets and a difficult third clip. From here a burly move right leads to good holds and the fourth clip. Follow easy ground past one more bolt to the anchors,

Really more of a boulder's route than the typical ET route. The crux moves are hard V5?, but if you like small pockets you will love this route.

Might be a little soft for the grade.


Location 

The left route on the front face. Just right of Hoggle and left of a new unknown route.


Protection 

5 Bolts to an anchor with leaver biners. There is no chain so expect your rope to get twisted. Could use an upgrade.



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By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 12, 2009

Definitely does not climb like a typical ET route. But, instead like a tall boulder problem. It is still one of my favorite routes on this wall and worth doing.