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Dave on American Nirvana
Another great shady sport route on the Llama wall. Climbs like a stiffer version of Entering Relativity, expect similar well featured footholds and mostly great holds. After a solo to the first bolt climb moderate and positive climbing heading towards a large pocket. Here the crux of a finger lock, gastons, and positive crimps stays on ya till you reach positive jugs. After the final crack sequence, which starts off as a left facing lieback into a right facing lieback. You could place an optional piece here but if your used to Smith bolting you won't have trouble here. On a rock quality and asthetics standpoint, I don't think it warrants the 4 star rating in the book (especially compared to Blackened) but American Nirvana offers great climbing
To the left of Blackened. The route starts soloing up a small juggy vert section to a ledge to the first bolt.
Bolts and an optional finger size piece for the finish
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
May 27, 2014
This route is actually the 2nd bolt line to the RIGHT of blackened. Deceivingly steep and pumpy. Hard to read crux on an onsite, but amazing incut pockets to suss out the sequence from! I def set up camp while looking for my sequence.
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 15, 2014
This is a perfect example of a route with totally crap aesthetics but extremely fun movement. I would have never thought a climb like that was hiding on that kind of junky looking wall. I agree that the final optional gear is not necessary but it made me feel a lot better placing it because I probably would have fallen 30 feet (clean) otherwise had I not placed it and screwed up the final moves.