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 ADVANCED
Llama Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Nirvana S 
Blackened S 
Entering Relativity S 
Eye of the Beholder S 
Eye of the Beholder Finish S 
Llama Enlightenment S 
Llama Sutra S 
Wannabe Llamas S 
When Llamas Need Protection T 

American Nirvana 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Oct 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another great shady sport route on the Llama wall. Climbs like a stiffer version of Entering Relativity, expect similar well featured footholds and mostly great holds. After a solo to the first bolt climb moderate and positive climbing heading towards a large pocket. Here the crux of a finger lock, gastons, and positive crimps stays on ya till you reach positive jugs. After the final crack sequence, which starts off as a left facing lieback into a right facing lieback. You could place an optional piece here but if your used to Smith bolting you won't have trouble here. On a rock quality and asthetics standpoint, I don't think it warrants the 4 star rating in the book (especially compared to Blackened) but American Nirvana offers great climbing

Location 

To the left of Blackened. The route starts soloing up a small juggy vert section to a ledge to the first bolt.

Protection 

Bolts and an optional finger size piece for the finish


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By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
May 27, 2014

This route is actually the 2nd bolt line to the RIGHT of blackened. Deceivingly steep and pumpy. Hard to read crux on an onsite, but amazing incut pockets to suss out the sequence from! I def set up camp while looking for my sequence.