American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)
There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.
The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.
Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.
From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.
From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.
You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.
Really good route on excellent golden stone. I climbed up, clipped the first bolt, got onto the big ledge and clipped the second bolt and then reached down and un-clipped the first bolt to prevent rope drag. Balancy and subtle for the first three bolts. Precise and sequential footwork is necessary. The next three bolts are easier climbing on cool flat and occasionally incut edges. Another crux awaits at the sixth bolt, some flagging might be the trick to grabbing the big left facing flake pinch....[more]Browse More Classics in UT