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American Fork Canyon

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American Fork Ice 
Australian Boulder 
Avalanche Buttress 
B-52 Wall, The 
Beer Can Alley 
Billboard Trail, The 
Bingo Baby 
Black Magic 
Blue Walls, The 
Bone Cave, The 
Cannabis Wall 
Commons, The 
Division Wall 
Echo Boulder 
El Diablo Wall 
Escape Buttress 
Forgotten Trails 
Grey Cliffs Picnic Area 
Hard Rock 
Hell Cave 
Hell Wall 
Hideaway, The 
House Boulder 
Isolation Wall 
Juniper Wall 
Little Mill Area 
Little Mill Boulders 
Lower Division 
Membrane, The 
Narcolepsy 
Necromancer 
Red Corners, The 
Serenity 
Sign Wall, The 
Tank Canyon 
Temple, The 
Unknown 
Unknown Pleasures 
Upper Division Wall 
Watchtower, The 
White Wave Wall 

American Fork Canyon 


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Location: 40.4323, -111.751 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
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Summer climbing in AF.

Black Magic are...
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)

There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.

The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.

Please read the Forest Service Policy on American Fork Canyon


Local Beta 

Mountainworks is the local climbing shop.

Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.


Getting There 

From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.

From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.

You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.


390 Total Routes


['4 Stars',31],['3 Stars',158],['2 Stars',151],['1 Star',47],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',8],['5.8',10],['5.9',23],['5.10',96],['5.11',104],['5.12',86],['5.13',24],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',13],['V4-5',7],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for American Fork Canyon:
Rockapella   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Hard Rock
Stoic Calculus   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Hard Rock
Out of Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Serenity : Eavesdown Docks
Caress of Steel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Membrane
Platinum Blonde   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Hard Rock
Winds of Fire   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Hard Rock
Many Options   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Hard Rock
Firefly   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Serenity : Eavesdown Docks
Deep End   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Division Wall
Juggernaut   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Hard Rock
Suicide Blonde   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Hard Rock
License To Thrill   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Membrane
Bringer of Light   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Bingo Baby
Teeanova   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Hard Rock
Liquid Oxygen   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Division Wall
Pig Pen   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Little Mill Area
Isotoner Moaner   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Division Wall
Beeline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Billboard Trail : The Billboard
40 oz to Freedom   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Bingo Baby
Between The Lines   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Membrane
Browse More Classics in American Fork Canyon

Featured Route For American Fork Canyon
Ethan about to run out of intuition on his onsight attempt of Death of a Sailsman.

Death of a Sailsman 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Billboard
Right of the block is a vectorial line that crosses an overlap right off the ground, this is Death of a Sailsman. Continuous, slightly spooky climbing leads to the cruxy roof section just below the anchor. Hard to believe that Ruckman gave it only two stars. Continuous, tricky, vectorial climbing on great stone add up to a classic AF "a"....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For American Fork Canyon
Photos of American Fork Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
some consider this to be the best line in the wasatch
some consider this to be the best line in the wasa...
Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs parking area. <br />1 <a href='/v/hard-rock/105739715'>Hard Rock</a> <br />2 <a href='/v/white-wave-wall/105739683'>White Wave</a> <br />3 <a href='/v/escape-buttress/105739671'>Escape Buttress</a> <br />4 <a href='/v/necromancer/105885713'>Necromancer</a> <br />5 <a href='/v/narcolepsy/105885742'>Narcolepsy</a>
BETA PHOTO: Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs pa...
Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway
Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway
Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway
Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway
A summer evening in <a href='/v/american-fork-canyon/105739274'>American Fork Canyon</a>.
A summer evening in American Fork Canyon.
me on my first lime stone route that i know of... fun
me on my first lime stone route that i know of... ...
Comments on American Fork Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2013
By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Mar 21, 2010

is there any decent multi-pitch up the canyon that is worth getting one?

By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Apr 6, 2010

There are several multi-pitch routes listed here on MP:

Eight to Eleven - .11b 2 pitch
Old School - .10b 2 pitch

I hear there's a 2nd pitch to Stoic Calculus that is around .10a or .10b.

Suspect is an .11d 4 pitch route on B-52 Wall across the stream from Hell parking lot. There's also another route there that's listed as a project in the old Ruckman guide.

By Nate_801
From: St. George
Aug 1, 2010

I am getting ready to move to American Fork and was wondering if you guys knew any good route books for the Canyon??

By Darson K.
From: Provo
Feb 4, 2012

NateHeld, I moved here during the summer and I found about four good books on AF canyon. There are so many good routes up there and near by....INCREDIBLE climbing.

By MaRey
From: Salty lake, Utah
Mar 13, 2013

Anybody been to the hard rock or escape buttress areas recently, and if so how is it looking?

By SMR
Apr 22, 2013

Climbed there 2 weeks ago- it was good.

By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2013

We are visiting Salt Lake City in late November. If the weather is ok, we might try climbing at American Fork Canyon. Which areas in the canyon are good for climbing during late November?

By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Oct 15, 2013

AF is hit-and-miss in late November for weather and temps. There are some warm-ish, sunny afternoons to be found at these areas: Escape Buttress, The Hideaway, Beer Can Alley, White Wave Wall, The Shame Wall, The Grey Cliffs, The Watchtower.

If you don't mid some good choss, the north side of Rock Canyon has some classics that can be a good choice around this time of year: Training Camp, Bad Bananas, Super Bowl Wall, The Wasp, Trilogy Buttress, Layer Cake, The Jobsite.