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American Fork Canyon

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American Fork Ice 
Australian Boulder 
Avalanche Buttress 
B-52 Wall, The 
Beer Can Alley 
Billboard Trail, The 
Bingo Baby 
Black Magic 
Blue Walls, The 
Bone Cave, The 
Cannabis Wall 
Commons, The 
Division Wall 
Echo Boulder 
El Diablo Wall 
Escape Buttress 
Forgotten Trails 
Grey Cliffs Picnic Area 
Hard Rock 
Hell Cave 
Hell Wall 
Hideaway, The 
House Boulder 
Isolation Wall 
Juniper Wall 
Little Mill Area 
Little Mill Boulders 
Lower Division 
Membrane, The 
Narcolepsy 
Necromancer 
Red Corners, The 
Serenity 
Sign Wall, The 
Tank Canyon 
Temple, The 
Unknown 
Unknown Pleasures 
Upper Division Wall 
Watchtower, The 
White Wave Wall 

American Fork Canyon  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.4323, -111.751 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 639,543
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)

There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.

The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.

Please read the Forest Service Policy on American Fork Canyon


Local Beta 

Mountainworks is the local climbing shop.

Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.

Getting There 

From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.

From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.

You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.


Climbing Season



Weather station 0.1 miles from here

426 Total Routes

['4 Stars',39],['3 Stars',169],['2 Stars',166],['1 Star',49],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',8],['5.8',10],['5.9',23],['5.10',97],['5.11',105],['5.12',98],['5.13',36],['>=5.14',4],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',13],['V4-5',11],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for American Fork Canyon:
Rockapella   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Hard Rock
Stoic Calculus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Hard Rock
Out of Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Serenity : Eavesdown Docks
Platinum Blonde   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Hard Rock
Caress of Steel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Membrane
Winds of Fire   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Hard Rock
Firefly   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Serenity : Eavesdown Docks
Deep End   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Division Wall
Juggernaut   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Hard Rock
Suicide Blonde   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Hard Rock
License To Thrill   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Membrane
Bringer of Light   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Bingo Baby
Naked Nebula   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   White Wave Wall
Liquid Oxygen   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Division Wall
Teeanova   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Hard Rock
Pig Pen   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Little Mill Area
Beeline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Billboard Trail : The Billboard
Isotoner Moaner   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Division Wall
Algorithm   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Division Wall
40 oz to Freedom   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Bingo Baby
Browse More Classics in American Fork Canyon

Featured Route For American Fork Canyon
the lip traverse shared by Atmosphere, The Blue Ma...

The Blue Mask 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Billboard
Climb Atmosphere through the pod, out to the lip, and onto the headwall. Once on the headwall break left and immediately into the infamous crux lunge. Traverse straight left through amazing sequences on stellar pockets. Catch a breather and execute a difficult mantle before clipping the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of American Fork Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
some consider this to be the best line in the wasa...
some consider this to be the best line in the wasa...
Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs pa...
BETA PHOTO: Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs pa...
Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway
Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway
Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway
Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway
A summer evening in American Fork Canyon.
A summer evening in American Fork Canyon.
me on my first lime stone route that i know of... ...
me on my first lime stone route that i know of... ...

Comments on American Fork Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 6, 2014
By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Mar 21, 2010
is there any decent multi-pitch up the canyon that is worth getting one?
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Apr 6, 2010
There are several multi-pitch routes listed here on MP:

Eight to Eleven - .11b 2 pitch
Old School - .10b 2 pitch

I hear there's a 2nd pitch to Stoic Calculus that is around .10a or .10b.

Suspect is an .11d 4 pitch route on B-52 Wall across the stream from Hell parking lot. There's also another route there that's listed as a project in the old Ruckman guide.
By Nate_801
From: St. George
Aug 1, 2010
I am getting ready to move to American Fork and was wondering if you guys knew any good route books for the Canyon??
By Darson K.
From: Provo
Feb 4, 2012
NateHeld, I moved here during the summer and I found about four good books on AF canyon. There are so many good routes up there and near by....INCREDIBLE climbing.
By MaRey
From: Salty lake, Utah
Mar 13, 2013
Anybody been to the hard rock or escape buttress areas recently, and if so how is it looking?
By SMR
Apr 22, 2013
Climbed there 2 weeks ago- it was good.
By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2013
We are visiting Salt Lake City in late November. If the weather is ok, we might try climbing at American Fork Canyon. Which areas in the canyon are good for climbing during late November?
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Oct 15, 2013
AF is hit-and-miss in late November for weather and temps. There are some warm-ish, sunny afternoons to be found at these areas: Escape Buttress, The Hideaway, Beer Can Alley, White Wave Wall, The Shame Wall, The Grey Cliffs, The Watchtower.

If you don't mid some good choss, the north side of Rock Canyon has some classics that can be a good choice around this time of year: Training Camp, Bad Bananas, Super Bowl Wall, The Wasp, Trilogy Buttress, Layer Cake, The Jobsite.
By tsaint
Jun 2, 2014
While driving up the canyon I've noticed on the left hand side (north end) there are quite few limestone towers a good distance away from the road. Does anyone know of any established routes on said towers or of the quality of rock?
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 4, 2014
The towers on the north side are all in the Lone Peak Wilderness area, so it's unlikely that there are any routes, and even more unlikely that there ever will be.
By tsaint
Jun 9, 2014
Perin, thanks for the info and response.
By D Pearson
Nov 2, 2014
I'm a beginner climber looking to learn more about the sport and get more involved. I've noticed there are lots of moderate to advanced pitches, would there be anything good for beginners like myself?
By user id
Nov 2, 2014
no.
By Shanda Mills
Nov 6, 2014
D Pearson, yes, there are a lot of great routes for beginners! Try Rockapella, Late For Dinner, or Unknown 5.6 (left of Stump) if you're looking to try a lead climb.