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American Climbing Trip?

Original Post
jasoncm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

G'day,

I'm an aussie climber looking for some input regarding planning a climbing trip to (Canada,USA, Mexico). I am currently just pushing into 5.9 Trad leading and can climb up to 5.11a Sport. I love sport climbing but also really enjoy multi-pitch trad adventures.

My girlfriend and I are planning to travel around Canada, USA next year for somewhere between 2-6 months. I'm looking for help planning some sort of basic itinerary.

Here is just a few places that I have thought about:

Squamish, BC - Canada. Really want to climb here, great crack climbing. July/Aug

Canmore , AB - Canada. Lots of great sport climbing. July/Aug

Lake Tahoe area, CA. Lots of options here, less people than yosemite, climbing better suited to my grade.

Red rocks, NV - Bit of everything, Early or late in the season to escape heat.

Joshua Tree, Ca - Havent read much about it but sounds popular.

Ten sleep, Wy - Great sport climbing.

Moab, Utah - Looks like a cool place.

El Potrero Chico, Mexico - Heaps of sport routes, cheap food and accom.

Yosemite, Ca - All seems too busy, serious by all accounts. I have been here but not climbed. Would love to climb snake dike on half dome though.

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If I only get 2 months, then I'm pretty sure I will just concentrate on Canada and maybe venture down in the USA for a bit.

If I did get a heap more time and checked out all the places in my list, would that be the best selection of places to visit? Remember this is not just completely a climbing trip, I do want to experience some other cool stuff.

I have travelled around the USA and Canada before, but my girlfriend hasn't.

Cheers

Jason

BackAtItAgain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 15

Just returned from Tahoe (Lover's Leap) .. TONS of great multi-pitch (3 & 4 pitch) moderates.... way chill - camping right there... Yosemite should probably be seen - but logistically it can be challenging for a moderate trad climber.

Spend time in southern utah - place is amazing. try to hook up with someone on this site in the fall for an Indian Creek visit. Red Rock - big thumbs up !!!

We ran into 3 older (late 60's) assuie's at Lover's Leap .. cool to talk to the old guard!

I suggest including City of Rocks, on the way south, way mellow - lots of moderate trad , harder sport. Stunning scenery.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Jason,

Time of the year should be a major factor in where you climb. For example, Joshua Tree and Red Rock are too hot in the summer. Yosemite Valley can be sweltering during the summer, but north-facing climbs and early morning starts are your friend.

You have already listed some majorly great climbing areas- enough to keep you busy for a long time. I'm sure you will get the "don't miss climbing here or there" suggestions and it can be overwhelming.

Have fun.

Jeremy Hand · · Northern VA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100

The east coast has plenty of destinations as well, with fantastic sport and bouldering from NY down to Alabama.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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