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Jan 24, 2013
What are your "favorite" American Choss Classics? Formations, Towers, Prominent Features, or "classic" routes on them?

My list in-progress:

Ship Rock, NM
Lizard Head, CO
Curecanti Needle, CO
Crawford Needle, CO
Titan, Fisher Towers, UT (or, for that matter, anything in the Fishers)
Tooth Rock, AZ
Agathla, AZ
Southern Arete, Painted Wall, CO
Mudwall, Glenwood Canyon, CO
International Buttress, Glenwood Canyon, CO
Anything in Eldo ;)
slevin
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,048 points
Jan 24, 2013
Whitney Gilman Ridge Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Joined May 3, 2008
57 points
Jan 24, 2013
Inverting in rocktown
Sedona, AZ Kevin DB
Joined Jul 28, 2012
207 points
Jan 24, 2013
Steins Pillar, Turkey Monster, & St. Peters Dome. Every route on each of those is a classic (though I've only done 1/each). All are in Orygun. rpc
Joined Dec 5, 2005
690 points
Jan 24, 2013
Hey there!
Seneca. Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Joined Apr 19, 2010
2,007 points
Jan 24, 2013
Stairway to Heaven
Do you want to know about routes N of the 49th parallel? There's this area called the Canadian Rockies I could tell you about. Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Joined Jul 16, 2003
172 points
Jan 24, 2013
Steve- you're missing the Graceland of American choss.....North Cascades! The list is endless.
But while we're talking Rocky Mtn states, I'll add N Buttress of Capitol Pk to the queue.
And Rifle.
MikeS
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 1, 2006
30 points
Jan 24, 2013
Mount St. Nick in glacier park. 5.9 800 foot choss climbing to an amazing summit waaaay out in nowhere. The super classic that gets done maybe once a summer. shotgunnelson
Joined May 30, 2009
8 points
Jan 24, 2013
That I have done:

Baboquivari Peak, AZ--by any route, but quintessentially "Humungous Woosey"
Elephant Head, AZ--Rocktology (extra points for lichen & birdshit)
Elephant Dome, AZ--Elephantiasis
Leviathan Dome, AZ (questionable...most of the rock is pretty good)
Southern Arete, Black Canyon, CO

Still want to do: Shiprock; the Titan (and other Fishers); Valley of the Gods (Utah); the International in Glenwood Canyon; another Painted Wall route; Rosy Arete (Black Canyon); Weaver's Needle (AZ)
Charles Vernon
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,922 points
Jan 24, 2013
Opinions on places cited where I've climbed:

Chossy: NW Buttress Capitol, Lizard Head
Not too bad: Fisher Towers, Shiprock
Not bad at all: Whitney Gilman, Weaver's Needle

Not mentioned, not classic but super chossy things I've climbed: Rotwand (Eldo), Twin Peaks on Halfmoon Pass quadrangle in Saguache County, CO.
Turret Ridge (75.98.172.74/PeakStats/Climber... on Courthouse Mountain quad in Hinsdale County, CO is rumored to be looser and scarier than anything else I've mentioned.

In my experience, almost anything that has not received much climbing traffic is going to be chossy. The test of truly chossy rock is that it remains chossy despite repeated ascents. Examples: routes in the Fishers tend to clean up; Lizard Head's standard route climbs cleaner than its historical reputation would lead one to expect; climbs on Eldo's Rotwand seem to crumble afresh with each climber's passage.
david goldstein
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,689 points
Jan 24, 2013
Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...
Flakes of Wrath, Rumbling Bald, NC

I'll keep doing that one even though those flakes are so sketchy.
TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,681 points
Jan 24, 2013
Charles Vernon wrote:
That I have done: Baboquivari Peak, AZ--by any route, but quintessentially "Humungous Woosey" Elephant Head, AZ--Rocktology (extra points for lichen & birdshit) Elephant Dome, AZ--Elephantiasis


I'm 0 for 3 on Babo ... car troubles, weathered out, and rope-solo motivation loss. Need to get back down there.
Did Crater Genetics on Elephant Dome in '02 and enjoyed the Mendoza experience. Love to go back.
Putting Elephant Head in the Santa Ritas back on my list. Looks choss-a-licious. Thanks for reminding me.
slevin
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,048 points
Jan 24, 2013
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...
Notch Peak would fit the bill of being both chossy and classic. Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Apr 3, 2002
7,413 points
Jan 24, 2013
Steve Levin wrote:
I'm 0 for 3 on Babo ... car troubles, weathered out, and rope-solo motivation loss. Need to get back down there. Did Crater Genetics on Elephant Dome in '02 and enjoyed the Mendoza experience. Love to go back. Putting Elephant Head in the Santa Ritas back on my list. Looks choss-a-licious. Thanks for reminding me.


Do Humungous Woosey. I will confidently assert that it is the "Southern Arete" of southern Arizona.
Charles Vernon
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,922 points
Jan 24, 2013
mountainproject.com/v/zambezi-...

I really enjoy choss (bad childhood). For some reason, pitch four of the above route is one of my favorite choss pitches. Like anything else in climbing...I don't know why I like it. It just is.

If you are so-inclined: have fun.
Yep
Joined Dec 19, 2005
0 points
Jan 24, 2013
pinnacles, baby! mountainproject.com/v/pinnacle...

nothing quite like climbing on knobby prehistoric mud cobblestones!
Ben Philbrick
From lucerne, switzerland
Joined Jan 5, 2012
28 points
Jan 25, 2013
If you want to open this up to the "other" america I have a few suggestions from down south that might give you bad dreams. jeeter
Joined May 23, 2009
1 points
Jan 25, 2013
jeeter wrote:
If you want to open this up to the "other" america I have a few suggestions from down south that might give you bad dreams.


Absolutely.
Whitesides?
slevin
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,048 points
Jan 25, 2013
Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...
Steve Levin wrote:
Absolutely. Whitesides?


Nothing like climbing on mica potato chips! I always seem to get flakes of that place in my hair, eyes, etc...
TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,681 points
Jan 25, 2013
a picture of rocks
shotgunnelson wrote:
Mount St. Nick in glacier park. 5.9 800 foot choss climbing to an amazing summit waaaay out in nowhere. The super classic that gets done maybe once a summer.


The dirt couloir (would have been great fun full of ice) leading to the start of the climbing has to be one of the sketchiest/luckiest ascents of my life.
The big ledge a pitch above the notch.
The big ledge a pitch above the notch.
josh holmes
Joined Sep 5, 2008
211 points
Jan 25, 2013
Exactly. By the time you actually get to the part you rope up for you, you have been on sketch dirt/scree you fall you die terrain that the run outs and old raps off of boulders don't seem too bad. That being said there is always the north face of siyeh. For all you choss chasers it is one of the most prized summits. 4000 feet r/x climbing that's only been done by seven or eight people. shotgunnelson
Joined May 30, 2009
8 points
Mar 31, 2014
Agathla wins the award as a choss classic. I wouldn't recommend this climb for anyone. Leading it is scary, but following it is probably completely insane. It's 1,000 feet of loose basalt and tuff breccia boulders, all stacked on top of each other, and few are attached by anything other than pressure and good luck. MJ Nelson
From Tucson, AZ & Big Pine, CA
Joined Sep 15, 2013
8 points
Mar 31, 2014
Most things in Oregon. Whippin
From Bend, OR
Joined Mar 28, 2011
32 points
Mar 31, 2014
Michael Schneiter wrote:
Notch Peak would fit the bill of being both chossy and classic.



+1 Notch peak, makes cannon cliff feel like sport climbing
Eric Chabot
From Thetford Ctr, VT
Joined Jul 16, 2011
85 points
Apr 27, 2015
Choss
Choss

Bump for classic unprotectable death choss.

Organ Rock, 20 miles west of Monument Valley. Maybe not the most classic but possibly the chossiest? To my knowledge hasn't been repeated since John Middendorf and Walt Shipley climbed it free at 5.10 XXX(R&I story sans photos on bigwalls.net). Agathla, which is definitely a choss classic, looks solid in comparison.

Also, Tooth Rock doesn't belong on a choss list if you do the MSTS route. There are some loose sections up high but it's surprisingly solid and type 1 fun.

From what I've seen you can throw in 90% of the Rez towers to this list.
Kevin Kent
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Aug 1, 2010
698 points
Apr 27, 2015
Bugaboos, 1978 Photo by Ken Trout
Standing Rock, Island in the sky, Utah gets my vote. Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2003
1,550 points


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