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 ADVANCED
Alf Rig
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American Beauty 
Lightbulb, The 
Little Red Crystals in my Kidneys, The 
Slappin' the Captain 
Terrapin Arete 
Terrapin Station 
Tortoise 

American Beauty 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 18'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Scott Roberts
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: Bob Broilo on Jan 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: American Beauty Boulder 1 - Ripple 2 - American Be...

Description 

Crux is up high so watch your ankles!

A stellar line anywhere. Powerful moves lead to delicate moves lead to an exciting crux leads to a juggy finish.

Sit start has been done, adds some difficulty (V9-ish) but detracts from the quality.

Location 

The big red overhang, past the warm up rock, up the hill from Slappin' the Captain, and immediately to the East of the Tortoise boulder. I need an overview topo for the Alf Rig area...

Anyway, stand start on two slopers kind of on the left side of the overhang, use the undercling to gain the slick ledge. Dive right to the weakness on the lip and pull around and up to the jugs.

Protection 

pads and spotters. The big rock has hurt many an ankle.


Comments on American Beauty Add Comment
Show which comments
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jan 6, 2010
rating: V6- 7A

Ultra-classic problem, the must-do line for Socorro.

Now the Tech folks just need to blast the landing flat.
By socorroscott
From: socorro, nm
Nov 16, 2011

i fully disagree with bob that the sit start detracts from quality...it is a rad all point dyno to possibly the neatest hueco ever...just saying.
By Matt St. Peter
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 23, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

V7. And anyone who disagrees with me can do so respectfully with a well thought-out argument.

I had to fight HARD for this one and with some pretty gnarly falls from high up. Consider folding up a pad and placing it in front of the rock in the landing zone then a big pad on top. Evens out the landing. Also 2 spotters. And a helmet.
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 24, 2014
rating: V5+ 6C+

4 pads, and this one is good.

I think v5/6 from stand. The crux revolves around your ability to match, and move off a sloper... if you know how to use slopers, and you have reasonable conditions (thank christ it's north facing) then I don't think its a v7 move. Climb in Squamish for a season then come back and try this! Not sandbagging, I think half the classics at box are sandbagged - Pressure Drop, Left to Roof, Chewbacca - but this is one of the few that I think is a bit soft. Anyway, my point is that slopers are a bit of a rarity in New Mexico (well, at least before Roy and Ortegas) so it seems hard in comparison to other box climbs, and that conditions are fairly important too.

Hope that argument was worth reading. We can all agree it's an amazing problem, however.