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Old Sandstone
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American Beauty Crack 
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Chez's Chimney variation 
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Dancing Madly Backwards 
Deceptive 
Dirty Little Secret 
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Girls Named Sue 
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Has Been 
High Life, The 
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One-Upper 
Out There 
Pacific Ocean Wall 
Ptooey 
Sepsen Wall 
Seven Seas 
Sherlocked 
Swillbillies 
Tarantula 
Team Arturo 
Uberschmidt 
Wave Mechanics 
Wobbly Dihedral 

American Beauty Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Bechler, S. Sangdahl
Page Views: 1,725
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 11, 2001
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Doug plugging cams on American Beauty Crack, OldSS...

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Description 

The American Beauty Crack can be found just to the right of the Pacific Ocean Wall and Seven Seas. The crack sits on the inside of a 35-foot slightly overhanging right angle dihedral and is perfect for practicing your lieback moves or handjamming. The crux is at the slight overhang about halfway up the route.


Protection 

Standard Rack for leading. For top-rope bring long slings.



Photos of American Beauty Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Remo, learning how to Trad climb.
Remo, learning how to Trad climb.
American Beauty Crack is the left-most crack, in the small dihedral.  Everleigh Club Crack is to the right.
BETA PHOTO: American Beauty Crack is the left-most crack, in t...
Doug being both good looking and patriotic on American Beauty Crack 11/25/11.
Doug being both good looking and patriotic on Amer...
Doug near the top of the lead of American Beauty Crack at OldSS on 11/25-11.  That last finish move is different from the rest of the climb.
Doug near the top of the lead of American Beauty C...
Comments on American Beauty Crack Add Comment
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By Anonymous
Mar 28, 2002

f.a. rich bechler and steve sangdahl

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This was a great route. Perfect laybacks all the way up. This climb is often overlooked. Get on it.

By Ta-Chi Wang
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Layback may work on this beauty, but become a doubtful strategy when leading it. Tape your hand well if you get a small hand like I do, for on the half way up the wide crack fist-jamming become necessary.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I have to agree Ta-Chi. I just led this last friday, still nice laybacks, but when placing gear, I jammed to steady myself. Fun lead!

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

fun lead ...wide hands..big cams

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 30, 2011

I can't believe I've never done this route before. Awesome climb, and a must do for the moderate leader.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 27, 2011

Some of the best off-hands moves at the Lake.

By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Jan 7, 2012

Jan 7th 2012 and I got to lead this!! How awesome is a 40-deg dry day in January at Devil's Lake??? My rack only has up to #2 cam, luckily I had a partner with a #3 and #4, I used them both and still wish I had one more of each or maybe I should have just taken my really large hexes, either way, awesome climb!!