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 ADVANCED
Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

American Beauty Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Bechler, S. Sangdahl
Page Views: 1,814
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Doug plugging cams on American Beauty Crack, OldSS...

Description 

The American Beauty Crack can be found just to the right of the Pacific Ocean Wall and Seven Seas. The crack sits on the inside of a 35-foot slightly overhanging right angle dihedral and is perfect for practicing your lieback moves or handjamming. The crux is at the slight overhang about halfway up the route.


Protection 

Standard Rack for leading. For top-rope bring long slings.



Photos of American Beauty Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Remo, learning how to Trad climb.
Remo, learning how to Trad climb.
American Beauty Crack is the left-most crack, in the small dihedral.  Everleigh Club Crack is to the right.
BETA PHOTO: American Beauty Crack is the left-most crack, in t...
Doug being both good looking and patriotic on American Beauty Crack 11/25/11.
Doug being both good looking and patriotic on Amer...
Doug near the top of the lead of American Beauty Crack at OldSS on 11/25-11.  That last finish move is different from the rest of the climb.
Doug near the top of the lead of American Beauty C...
Comments on American Beauty Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous
Mar 28, 2002

f.a. rich bechler and steve sangdahl

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a great route. Perfect laybacks all the way up. This climb is often overlooked. Get on it.

By Ta-Chi Wang
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Layback may work on this beauty, but become a doubtful strategy when leading it. Tape your hand well if you get a small hand like I do, for on the half way up the wide crack fist-jamming become necessary.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I have to agree Ta-Chi. I just led this last friday, still nice laybacks, but when placing gear, I jammed to steady myself. Fun lead!

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

fun lead ...wide hands..big cams

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 30, 2011

I can't believe I've never done this route before. Awesome climb, and a must do for the moderate leader.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 27, 2011

Some of the best off-hands moves at the Lake.

By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Jan 7, 2012

Jan 7th 2012 and I got to lead this!! How awesome is a 40-deg dry day in January at Devil's Lake??? My rack only has up to #2 cam, luckily I had a partner with a #3 and #4, I used them both and still wish I had one more of each or maybe I should have just taken my really large hexes, either way, awesome climb!!