American Beauty Crack 5.8
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BETA PHOTO: American Beauty Crack is the left-most crack, in t...
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Description The American Beauty Crack can be found just to the right of the Pacific Ocean Wall and Seven Seas. The crack sits on the inside of a 35-foot slightly overhanging right angle dihedral and is perfect for practicing your lieback moves or handjamming. The crux is at the slight overhang about halfway up the route.
Protection Standard Rack for leading. For top-rope bring long slings.
Remo, learning how to Trad climb.
| Doug being both good looking and patriotic on Amer...
| Doug plugging cams on American Beauty Crack, OldSS...
| Doug near the top of the lead of American Beauty C...
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| Comments on American Beauty Crack |
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By Anonymous Mar 28, 2002
| f.a. rich bechler and steve sangdahl |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Aug 24, 2008 rating: 5.8
| This was a great route. Perfect laybacks all the way up. This climb is often overlooked. Get on it. |
By Ta-Chi Wang May 24, 2009 rating: 5.9
| Layback may work on this beauty, but become a doubtful strategy when leading it. Tape your hand well if you get a small hand like I do, for on the half way up the wide crack fist-jamming become necessary. |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 6, 2009 rating: 5.8
| I have to agree Ta-Chi. I just led this last friday, still nice laybacks, but when placing gear, I jammed to steady myself. Fun lead! |
By Ryan Strong From: Franklin, Wisconsin Mar 5, 2011 rating: 5.9
| fun lead ...wide hands..big cams |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Mar 30, 2011
| I can't believe I've never done this route before. Awesome climb, and a must do for the moderate leader. |
By Doug Hemken Administrator Nov 27, 2011
| Some of the best off-hands moves at the Lake. |
By Michael Bartosek From: Los Angeles Jan 7, 2012
| Jan 7th 2012 and I got to lead this!! How awesome is a 40-deg dry day in January at Devil's Lake??? My rack only has up to #2 cam, luckily I had a partner with a #3 and #4, I used them both and still wish I had one more of each or maybe I should have just taken my really large hexes, either way, awesome climb!! |
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