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 ADVANCED
Juniper Wall
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All the Right Moves T 
Amelie T 
Angelica T 
Constant Gardener, The T 
Deception Crack T 
Diagonal Crack T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fight Club T 
Project T 
Stair Step Traverse T 
Unknown OW to Fingers T 
Unknown Roof T 

Amelie 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Julian Poush, Skyeler Congdon, June 19, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 21, 2010

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Description 

Amelie is a variation to the first pitch of Fear of Flying. It goes up the first 20 feet of Fear of Flying then instead of traversing, it heads straight up in a flared dihedral. The climbing in the dihedral is very reminiscent of Flare Thee Well in Vedauwoo. It stops at the belay stance for the first pitch of Fear of Flying.

Location 

The route starts in the same place as Fear of Flying.

Build an anchor, and finish with the last pitch of Fear of Flying.

Protection 

A single set of cams 00 Metolius to #1 Camalot. 1 set of small to medium stoppers. 2 #1 Metolius TCUs, 2 #1 Metolius Power Cams, 2 #2 Metolius Power Cams. 2-3 single length runners. 1 #0.5 Camalot, 2 #0.75 Camalots for the anchor.


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By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Jun 21, 2010

Can you really call a 30 ft variation to a pre-existing 120 ft route a NEW route?? Maybe they allow that kind of ego-petting up in Wyoming, but this is Unaweep....

And why is my name on the FA? I had nothing to do with this choss ;)
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Jun 22, 2010

Why is the route called Amelie?

Just curious because my very recent ex-gf's name is Amelie, and I would crack up if it was indeed a choss pile. Next time I'm out there, I'll hope on it and see if the two have similar personalities.
By EldoFiend
From: WY
Jun 24, 2010

Hey, in Wyoming 30 feet could net you two new routes. And speaking of Wyoming, Flare Thee Well is 11-. You need to get out of the land of inflated grades, Julian. Come back to the light.
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Sep 13, 2010

Pablo, at 12a this route is graded stiff. You pull Fear of Flying's 11c-ish first crux with a ground fall protected by one piece, then the Amelie variation starts and I couldn't even do the moves on TR, and I've led 12a trad. I think Julian is drawing a comparison as to the style of climbing with this and Flare Thee Well.