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This climb remains on the wide west side outside ramp ridge of the central depression. It has remained intact because it is away from the rock slides that have radically changed the appearance of the eastern ledges.
I posted a route I haven't done. I believed I had until photos were posted, it appears I didn't do it. The A.M.C is a classic route and far better than what I climbed.
West central ramp ridge of the Great Ledges. Walk down trail.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009
I THINK this is the route we did years ago, decent climbing with a good situation. We found a 5.9-ish steep finish with a wooden wedge in it.
Fearsome painful quartzy finger crack on the approach boulder near the swamp.
|By Zach Wigham|
Sep 2, 2012
My first time attemping this route saw my party ascend to the top of pitch three and then rap down into the gully. The date was Sept. 1, 2012.
This route is found by following the loop trail on Byron Rd and watching for pink flagging ribbon/semi-faded yellow painted arrows. The base of the climb is just climber's right of the old closed off trail leading up a steep gully.
Pitch 1 starts with an awkward stance in a pod and moves upward with some fairly decent horizontal finger cracks. Just before ascending to the base of the second pitch, a rim of rock jutting out over the rest of the wall is easily overcome as there is a great foothold.
Pitch 2 seems to be protected better to the left of the small tree on the lefthand side of the ledge. Following that, a crack can be followed upward until we abandoned it for a rightward traverse, continuing diagonally up and right to another small ledge cut into an inclined face. A solid crack lies right of the cut-in for an anchor.
Pitch 3 is short but out of what I experienced the most difficult. Slippery vegetation lines the most direct way up to the next face. Horizontal finger cracks and small footholds will get you to an inclined vertical rock formation which juts out at you. It offers pockets for hand holds at about head-height from reaching the point. Getting around this formation seems to advocate the use of a layback and pull-around to get on top of the formation. The largely blank face to the right of this rock formation has small finger holds to use for balance - those got me over this move. Once on top good handholds and footholds exist to allow you ascent to the top of the third pitch.
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Climbed the first three pitches yesterday following Zach's good beta but skipped the last because it was getting dark. Andrew got to lead a "pitch" traversing into the gully on the left, but there wasn't a technical move in it. This is an easy alternative to rapping, and could be used to reach the middle of the wall via the Chimney Trail.
Note: on the approach you will eventually see the huge cliffs unmistakably in front of you. We started climbing on the first band of cliffs we encountered, which I can't recommend.