Ambush 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Richard Wright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 2001 |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on Apr 1, 2001 |
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Description Ambush runs up a black water streak and groove. The crux is passing the second bolt after which the climbing settles down for some fun chimney work for 20 feet or so. There are some avoidable blocks higher up, but taking them off without hitting the road is dubious and they are best just avoided. The horn that constitutes the main target for the crux move, is starting to come loose and will be glued in place in the near future; for now, don't pull too hard on it.
The first redpoint of Ambush fell to the consumate Bernard [Gillett].
Protection QDs only. This 60 foot route needs 8 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 9, 2001
| This crag is pretty cool. We did a bunch of routes and they all were on good rock. Ambush is a one move wonder but was pretty cool. You have to go over a overhang but it is hard to get the [first] clip. This is not really a chimney no matter how it looks. Good finger locks make it seem more like a face climb than a chimney. Overall a pretty good route. |
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Aug 20, 2003
| The grouted hold creaked a little bit when I pulled on it! I don't see a way to avoid cranking on its left side, which is a bit frightening considering it would land on your head. Above the roof, the climbing was excellent! A fun stem/chimney/finger and hand jam sequence. |
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 10, 2012
rating: 5.12b
| Cool movement, felt a little stiff for .12a. |
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