Amber Waves of Pain 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Steve Lewanik, Mark Goldman 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Tom Ormond on Nov 21, 2009 |
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1st hang
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle. Work up some steep face moves, aiming towards a notch in the overhang over a steep, reddish face. Hold on through the first overhang. Make some thin face moves, past several overhangs, then get the OH MY GOD stance. After this, pass another overhang, move right, then up, over, and back left into the open book to the top. Continuous, steep, and very pumpy.
Location This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.
Protection Well protected, some scary face moves off the GT ledge.
getting to 2nd hang
| 2nd hang
| into the notch
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| Comments on Amber Waves of Pain |
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By Jeffrey Gagliano From: Pennsburg, PA Dec 11, 2009
| The crux is pulling over the first roof and is not trivial. Perhaps the last roof might be a 9+ at the very least. The whole pitch is intimidating all the way. I've had several capable climbers follow me, and all concurred that the old rating of 9+ is a sandbag. |
By vanishing spy Mar 21, 2010
| The crux is a very large reach to the good hold and hard for the grade (5.10a). |
By Spiro Oct 11, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| long reach for some... |
By Tom Ormond Dec 25, 2010
| Apparently they're not into sandbagging in the gunks anymore. Weak, I think. |
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