Amber Waves of Pain
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From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.
Work up some steep face moves, aiming towards a notch in the overhang over a steep, reddish face. Hold on through the first overhang. Make some thin face moves, past several overhangs, then get the OH MY GOD stance. After this, pass another overhang, move right, then up, over, and back left into the open book to the top. Continuous, steep, and very pumpy.
This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.
Well protected, some scary face moves off the GT ledge.
getting to 2nd hang
into the notch
|Comments on Amber Waves of Pain
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Dec 11, 2009
The crux is pulling over the first roof and is not trivial. Perhaps the last roof might be a 9+ at the very least. The whole pitch is intimidating all the way. I've had several capable climbers follow me, and all concurred that the old rating of 9+ is a sandbag.
|By vanishing spy|
Mar 21, 2010
The crux is a very large reach to the good hold and hard for the grade (5.10a).
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
long reach for some...
|By Tom Ormond|
Dec 25, 2010
Apparently they're not into sandbagging in the gunks anymore. Weak, I think.