Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber Waves of Pain T 
Andrew T 
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 
Annie Oh! T 
Arrow T 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 
CCK Direct T 
Cold Turkeys T 
Diana T 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 
Erect Direction T 
Face to Face T 
Feast of Fools T 
Hans' Puss T 
Hawkeye T 
Jim's Gem T 
Keep on Struttin' T 
Last Will Be First, The T 
Limelight T 
Lost and Found T 
Man's Quest for Flight T 
Moby Dick T 
Modern Times T 
Moonlight T 
No Glow T 
Nurse's Aid T 
Proctor Silex T 
Proctoscope T 
Red Pillar T 
Silhouette T 
Smilin' the Hard Way T 
Steep Hikin' T 
Step Lively T 
Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Amber Waves of Pain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Lewanik, Mark Goldman 1987
Page Views: 2,494
Submitted By: Tommy Ormond on Nov 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
2nd hang

Description 

From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.

Work up some steep face moves, aiming towards a notch in the overhang over a steep, reddish face. Hold on through the first overhang. Make some thin face moves, past several overhangs, then get the OH MY GOD stance. After this, pass another overhang, move right, then up, over, and back left into the open book to the top. Continuous, steep, and very pumpy.

Location 

This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.

Protection 

Well protected, some scary face moves off the GT ledge.


Photos of Amber Waves of Pain Slideshow Add Photo
1st hang
1st hang
getting to 2nd hang
getting to 2nd hang
into the notch
into the notch

Comments on Amber Waves of Pain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Dec 11, 2009

The crux is pulling over the first roof and is not trivial. Perhaps the last roof might be a 9+ at the very least. The whole pitch is intimidating all the way. I've had several capable climbers follow me, and all concurred that the old rating of 9+ is a sandbag.
By vanishing spy
Mar 21, 2010

The crux is a very large reach to the good hold and hard for the grade (5.10a).
By Spiro
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

long reach for some...
By Tommy Ormond
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Dec 25, 2010

Apparently they're not into sandbagging in the gunks anymore. Weak, I think.