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Amber Waves of Pain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Lewanik, Mark Goldman 1987
Page Views: 2,048
Submitted By: Tom Ormond on Nov 21, 2009
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2nd hang
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.

Work up some steep face moves, aiming towards a notch in the overhang over a steep, reddish face. Hold on through the first overhang. Make some thin face moves, past several overhangs, then get the OH MY GOD stance. After this, pass another overhang, move right, then up, over, and back left into the open book to the top. Continuous, steep, and very pumpy.


Location 

This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.


Protection 

Well protected, some scary face moves off the GT ledge.



Photos of Amber Waves of Pain Slideshow Add Photo
1st hang
1st hang
getting to 2nd hang
getting to 2nd hang
into the notch
into the notch
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By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Dec 11, 2009

The crux is pulling over the first roof and is not trivial. Perhaps the last roof might be a 9+ at the very least. The whole pitch is intimidating all the way. I've had several capable climbers follow me, and all concurred that the old rating of 9+ is a sandbag.

By vanishing spy
Mar 21, 2010

The crux is a very large reach to the good hold and hard for the grade (5.10a).

By Spiro
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

long reach for some...

By Tom Ormond
Dec 25, 2010

Apparently they're not into sandbagging in the gunks anymore. Weak, I think.