All Locations > W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > S Peak - E Face > Cockscomb E Face

Amazing Grace

Name: Amazing Grace
Rating: 1.7

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R

Routes in Cockscomb East Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Celosia T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Diane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Incredible Overhanging Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jane's Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Old Ladies Excitement T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Larry Conrad, Mike Schmitt 1974
Page Views:	808 total · 7/month
Shared By:	cm j on May 7, 2015
Admins:	Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route traverses the South Peak East Face to the top of the Soler Flake. It is technically a variation to Old Ladies Excitement. It has serious run outs and is infrequently done, so expect to be brushing off lichen to find your holds (some of which may break...).

The original submission for this route generally followed what was previously thought of as Amazing Grace but research for Ed 4 revealed some changes that needed to be made. I've attempted to preserve as much of the original submitter's info as possible while still keeping true to the route. (AW - Admin)

Protection is infrequent but (mostly) solid, but falls shouldn't be dangerous until you get to the last 30 ft of the route (follower would hit the Soler Flake full force in a fall... bolt could probably protect that).

Start: At the intersecting ledge with bolts atop Dirty Old Man, Frosted Flake (P1) and Old Ladies Excitement (P1). The easiest access is to climb P1 of Old Ladies Excitement.

P1. Climb P2 of Old Ladies Excitement until about 15 ft from the top and make a belay.

P2. Traverse right around the corner onto the lichen-covered face. Pass the shuts on T. R. Rap and Tap to a thin vertical crack. Follow this straight up to a set of shuts (end here to skip the dangerous traverse). Continue right and very slightly up to head directly for the top of Soler Flake. (~115ft)

Original poster comment: I'd probably give this route two stars if it weren't for the final traverse. End at the last set of shuts for a bit of 5.7 adventure.

Location

First pitch has plenty of landmarks in the above description.

For P2 -- If you look at a picture of the east face, you notice two massive, nearly horizontal, right-leaning seams down and left of the summit. You pass under the left-most, and through the left end of the right seam.