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Routes in Lots of Balls Slab
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Amazing Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Autumn Sauna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beat Street Trauma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Left of Fauna T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Patient Pace T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Tony Calderone 2007 |
| Page Views: | 904 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Nov 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service.
Details
That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.
Description
P1- Climb up a dirty crack on a slab beneath a small roof. From crack force yourself out left to a stance and a bolt. Clip the bolt and either go left or force yourself to commit to slabbing straight above the bolt (fun). Clip a bolt at a roof and climb over using big holds passing a belay rap anchor. Clip a few more bolts ramble up the slab passing a large ledge and one more bolt to semi hanging 2 ring belay/rap station. 5.7R 180'
P2- Clip bolt just above the belay below the west facing dihedral. The next bolt is about 30 feet up and to the left of the dihedral. We climbed in the dihedral for a bit then stepped out and made some committing moves to gain the bolt (see page![]()
). Once the bolt is gained big holds on varnished rock bring you to a sub station. Pass the sub belay and climb up nice features passing 3 bolts, one of which is missing a hanger (it still has the nut so you can slide a wire nut over it)to a semi hanging belay at 2 rings. 5.7+ R 165'
P3- From belay climb up water streak to a mini roof placing dubious cams in rotten rock. Tiptoe along the rotten foot rail until you can sling a tree growing out of a crack. A few bolts bring you to a stance and sub belay. Pass this and make a step down to the left and friction up nice red varnish. From the top of the varnish plug a good nut and step up over the mini bulge, from the top of this a couple of bolts bring you up near the arete and a 2 bolt belay. 5.8 R 195'
P4- Slab you way up the coarse granite on the arete. A bolt is about 25 feet up. Pass this to an obvious belay at 2 bolts. 5.6R 60ft.
P2- Clip bolt just above the belay below the west facing dihedral. The next bolt is about 30 feet up and to the left of the dihedral. We climbed in the dihedral for a bit then stepped out and made some committing moves to gain the bolt (see page
P3- From belay climb up water streak to a mini roof placing dubious cams in rotten rock. Tiptoe along the rotten foot rail until you can sling a tree growing out of a crack. A few bolts bring you to a stance and sub belay. Pass this and make a step down to the left and friction up nice red varnish. From the top of the varnish plug a good nut and step up over the mini bulge, from the top of this a couple of bolts bring you up near the arete and a 2 bolt belay. 5.8 R 195'
P4- Slab you way up the coarse granite on the arete. A bolt is about 25 feet up. Pass this to an obvious belay at 2 bolts. 5.6R 60ft.
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