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Chimney Rock
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8th and Main 
Amanecer 
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Stripper 
Tomorrow is Today 
Unstrung Harp 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs. 
Veranda 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest 

Amanecer 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cook, 2000
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Christian on Oct 21, 2009
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Description 

Solid 5.12 on dead vertical to very slightly overhanging rock = long powerful moves between small holds.

Not sure whether the arete left of the bolt line towards the top is on or not.


Location 

In corridor on north side of Chimney Rock, access by hiking around to climber's left of George's Buttress.

Look for face with bright green lichen just around the corner from the West face.


Protection 

Bolts



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By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 22, 2009

Hey Christian, this route was actually put up by Mike Cook. The initials should have been MCo but I blew it. Jimbo said and you confirmed it, the route is contrived. If you have to ask if it is on then it is contrived. Outside if you are not bouldering there is no on or off. Like the new one at Jailhouse, if you can reach it you can use it. How hard would it be if you didn't contrive it?

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 22, 2009

Cool, FA info fixed.

The arete at the top definitely made it easier, have no idea how hard overall it would be going straight up??? 12 c/d? Just stoked to actually get to top without having to bail.

"Tomorrow is Today" actually looked better but the start was looking a little sketchy to me after expending some energy finally leading SLR :-)

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 17, 2011

A crystal blew off on me today while I was on this... it now looks like it would be even harder to go straight up and avoid the arete.

By Ken Head
From: Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2013

Was there when Mike finally got it clean. Definitely goes straight up and not on the arete. Fun route. Miss you bud.