||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]|
|FA: ||To first anchor: Andy Deklerk, 1991 Extension: Ben Gilkison, 2007|
|Season: ||Late Fall-Early Spring|
|Page Views: ||2,800|
|Submitted By: ||Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008|
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Andy Deklerk on Amandla (5.13c), Index Town Walls....
This brilliant route leaves Numbah Ten after the 6th bolt and heads right through a roof and up onto a technical arete that is just under vertical. Some ascents have likely climbed to the right after the roof to take advantage of a full rest on Iron Horse before moving back left to establish on the arete; this reduces the grade to about .13a as it allows one to start the Powerhorse (Iron Horse into Amandla) sequence fully rested (and chalked). If climbed directly without the jaunt right into the rest, the sequence of moves is much harder and the route feels far more sustained. In any case, the climbing is a remarkable mixture of power and finesse, difficult nearly the whole way through. Temperature and humidity are both important considerations when attempting the route unless your granite technique is absolutely flawless.
The extension continues above the anchor over the roof past one bolt to a more logical finish at an anchor on a large ledge (.13c/d). The first section of this will be desperate if you can't simply stem across the feature. A small stopper and a finger-size cam protect the final section above the bolt.
One 70m rope reaches the ground from the top anchor; otherwise a 60m is sufficient. Route starts as for Numbah Ten in an obvious groove left of Iron Horse.
13 quickdraws plus anchor; one more quickdraw plus small nuts/tcu's for the extension.
Jan 10, 2015
This pitch is amazing - it has to be one of the best single pitches of granite climbing anywhere. Definitely end this by climbing up and over the roof (either rightward or leftward), it provides a final redpoint crux just after anchor #1, and seems like the only logical finish. The original anchor doesn't make any sense. There certainly isn't an easy/obvious way to escape over into the Iron Horse flare. It may be possible, but sticking to the arete doesn't feel contrived.