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Main Wall, left side
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Amandla S 
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Godzilla T 
Iron Horse T 
It's a dog's life, but you can picnic with us T,TR 
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Model Worker T 
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 
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TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 

Amandla 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Andy Deklerk, 1991
Season: Late Fall-Early Spring
Page Views: 2,113
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Andy Deklerk on Amandla (5.13c), Index Town Walls....

Description 

This brilliant route leaves Numbah Ten after the 6th bolt and heads right through a roof and up onto a technical arete that is just under vertical. Some ascents have likely climbed to the right after the roof to take advantage of a full rest on Iron Horse before moving back left to establish on the arete; this reduces the grade to about .13a as it allows one to start the Powerhorse (Iron Horse into Amandla) sequence fully rested (and chalked). If climbed directly without the jaunt right into the rest, the sequence of moves is much harder and the route feels far more sustained, thus warranting the full grade. In any case, the climbing is a remarkable mixture of power and finesse, difficult nearly the whole way through. Temperature and humidity are both important considerations when attempting the route unless your granite technique is absolutely flawless.

An extension (F.A. Ben Gilkison, 2007) continues above the anchor over the roof past one bolt to a more logical finish at an anchor on a large ledge (.13c/d). The first section of this will be desperate if you can't simply stem across the feature (making it solid .13d). A small stopper, a finger-size cam or two and a cool head are needed for this extension.


Location 

One 70m rope reaches the ground from the top anchor; otherwise a 60m is sufficient. Route starts as for Numbah Ten in an obvious groove left of Iron Horse.


Protection 

13 quickdraws plus anchor; one more quickdraw plus small nuts/tcu's for the extension.



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