Amadeus' Project
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 42 ft (13 m) |
FA: | Andre Erohin and Roman Kovalyev |
Page Views: | 680 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Amadeus DeKastle on Nov 5, 2013 |
Admins: | Amadeus DeKastle |
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Description
This is a newly bolted line by Amadeus that is in the second area at Chongkurchak. It follows a perfectly vertical wall with very little feature. the first half has 4 bolts and the second half has only one (causing the R rating since if you fall at the 5th bolt you will most likely hit the ground from 10 meters up.)
The crux section is obviously the first half of the climb on the vertical face. The first bolt is quite low to keep the potential for a second line off to the right of the bolts up the arete, but you don't really need to clip it for this climb. There is also the potential to add an extra piece of protection in the tiny finger crack by shoving in a small cam or nut.
The crux section is obviously the first half of the climb on the vertical face. The first bolt is quite low to keep the potential for a second line off to the right of the bolts up the arete, but you don't really need to clip it for this climb. There is also the potential to add an extra piece of protection in the tiny finger crack by shoving in a small cam or nut.
Protection
There are 5 bolts to clip plus the potential for placing a small cam or nut between bolts 2 and 3. You may also feel like you need to protect the second half with more than just the one bolt that is there. There are places to put some trad gear in though so no worries. Good anchors at the top as well.
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