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By Ian Stewart
Oct 31, 2012
bearbreeder wrote:
dya see much "great advice" on this thread ... maybe thats why he should go talk to a REAL person who can climb at the level they aspire to ;)


No I don't, and I already addressed that very bluntly (in the post you just quoted, actually):

Ian Stewart wrote:
I also said that there's no way to give advice to the OP anyways, since there's no information in his post to base any advice on in the first place


The OP's post was about as vague as posting on a weight lifting forum "I lift a few times a week and can now bench 175lbs. Am I going to injure myself?" What advice do you think they'd have for him?

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By rogerbenton
Oct 31, 2012
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.
sounds like you're flirting with disaster every day...



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By Loyd Wofford III
Oct 31, 2012
DEVILS TOWER
Jonhy Q wrote:
Best troll ever. Two pages of idiots with hurt egos ranting about how grades don't matter, the question is stupid, and my opinion counts because my mom told me I am special and I call myself a climber. Funny stuff chufflets, funny stuff!


This is a climbing thing I thought we were talking about boulders and bearbreeding also since you bring up hangboarding I think I did that behind the boat this summer it was great!!!

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By mozeman
Oct 31, 2012
Jonhy Q wrote:
Best troll ever. Two pages of idiots with hurt egos ranting about how grades don't matter, the question is stupid, and my opinion counts because my mom told me I am special and I call myself a climber. Funny stuff chufflets, funny stuff!

I truly think some of the best "trolls" are really just inexperienced climbers....sprayers? no doubt!

but we were all sprayers early on in our climbing lives, and if not, your lying

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By IronMan
Oct 31, 2012
Wow, I didn't realize I would get such a response.

I am not a troll, I was just looking for some advice

My hangboard routine:
4 grips, 6x10 secs w/5 secs recovery. 2 mins recovery in between each grip.
then 3x10 pull ups on the jugs.
then 3x10 offset pullups.
then pull ups till failure.

I do the above routine 1-2 times a week. usually once though.

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By IronMan
Oct 31, 2012
Also, the one time a week I climb:

I go for around 3 hours, and I generally boulder at my max, and work on any current projects I have

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By Kalil Oldham
From Brooklyn, NY
Oct 31, 2012
At the Harry Daley Base, Yosemite Valley.
Wilson Marinez wrote:
Also, the one time a week I climb: I go for around 3 hours, and I generally boulder at my max, and work on any current projects I have


At the gym?

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By IronMan
Oct 31, 2012
yes, at the gym.

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By frankstoneline
Oct 31, 2012
Wilson Marinez wrote:
Wow, I didn't realize I would get such a response. I am not a troll, I was just looking for some advice My hangboard routine: 4 grips, 6x10 secs w/5 secs recovery. 2 mins recovery in between each grip. then 3x10 pull ups on the jugs. then 3x10 offset pullups. then pull ups till failure. I do the above routine 1-2 times a week. usually once though.


What grips are you using/are you adding any weight/are you gripping open handed?

If this routine is 1 to 2 times a week, and you can complete the workout without any heinous pains I wouldnt worry too much about headed for disaster type injury (though, as has been stated repeatedly, listen to your body). If you are adding weight or employing heinous grips or not appropriately warming up before hand I would be cautious.

Bottom line: improved hand strength will help your climbing to some degree, and if you can only get to the gym once a week a hangboard session is a good way to maintain/train in between. However, you might find greater gains in your climbing if you apply that hangboard time elsewhere, though that assumes you have access to a wall of some sort.

As for your resting question, I would consider taking a week off to rest and take note of how you feel when you come back.

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2012
Bocan
Climb smart man...tendonitis is a mofo.

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By IronMan
Nov 1, 2012
I try to switch it up a bit gripwise, but usually I use:

Medium Edge
Small Edge
Round Sloper
3 finger pocket

all grips are open handed. No crimping.


I hit the weights every Thursday. I alternate between chest/shoulders/core and chest/biceps/triceps/core. I also run cross country.

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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2012
Just a teaser
Just be sure to work opposing muscle groups, as many have said, tendonitis is a bitch.

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By matt davies
Nov 1, 2012

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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2012
Just a teaser
^^^^ Yes just do that ^^^^^
but don't wear pleated pants...

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By frankstoneline
Nov 1, 2012
Wilson Marinez wrote:
I try to switch it up a bit gripwise, but usually I use: Medium Edge Small Edge Round Sloper 3 finger pocket all grips are open handed. No crimping. I hit the weights every Thursday. I alternate between chest/shoulders/core and chest/biceps/triceps/core. I also run cross country.


I think given those grips I wouldnt worry too much, thats nothing particularly intense.
just watch the elbows. if they start to act up take heed and back off the board.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 1, 2012
El Chorro
Wilson Marinez wrote:
I try to switch it up a bit gripwise, but usually I use: Medium Edge Small Edge Round Sloper 3 finger pocket all grips are open handed. No crimping. I hit the weights every Thursday. I alternate between chest/shoulders/core and chest/biceps/triceps/core. I also run cross country.


Sounds like you're pretty well rounded in terms of fitness. That's a good thing.

Some people love hang boards and others dont use them at all. If you really enjoy it then by all means continue carefully, but I'd encourage you to spend that time climbing on a rope. If you can't climb on a rope then do 6x8's on easy problems or 4x4s. Work on efficiency. I personally don't know anyone climbing below v7 and mid 5.12 that is serious about hang boarding. Most climbers are not being held back by fingerstrength, especially beginners or those operating in the lower V grades.

If you really like the idea of this kind of training, see about getting a system board/wall set at your gym. I view hangboards and rock rings as something to do when I can't climb. They are great for that, especially rings, But you get more of a full body workout when you are actually making climbing movements.

The weights are a great idea, and you are working the right muscles (the ones you don't work when climbing). Just don't use too much weight or else you'll add bulk. 3 sets of 8 to 12. You can also turn the weights into a circuit so you're getting a bit of a cardio workout as well. But during XC you're already getting that.

PS - If you hadn't mentioned the grade you climbed it wouldn't have taken three pages for people to start giving you serious answers.

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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Nov 1, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on
yer gonna die!

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By pooler
From Albany, NY
Nov 1, 2012
does anyone have the number to Rock and Resole? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Nov 2, 2012
pooler wrote:
does anyone have the number to Rock and Resole? I can't seem to find it anywhere.


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