Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Am I headed for disaster?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 2 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Loyd Wofford III
Oct 31, 2012
DEVILS TOWER

I agree bouldering annually kills more people than heart attacks, drunk driving and suicide combind. O yeah and double that on SUNDAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


FLAG
By D-Storm
Oct 31, 2012
Enjoying a misty day on top of the Bookmark on Lumpy Ridge at age 14 or 15.

Loyd Wofford III wrote:
I agree bouldering annually kills more people than heart attacks, drunk driving and suicide combind. O yeah and double that on SUNDAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Careful. Unless you are Joe Kinder, using too many exclamation points can lead to heart palpitations and people taking your comments less seriously. It's tempting to use an emoticon here to emphasize that this is all in good fun, but those things carry risks as well.


FLAG
By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Oct 31, 2012
CoR

Bouldering isn't climbing or even a real sport so you can't really get hurt.


FLAG
By frankstoneline
Oct 31, 2012

Boodge Nomchompski wrote:
If you haven't already (you didn't say, so I'll assume you climb in the gym), you should go climb outside and see if your gym's ratings stack up. There are plenty of people that climb V4 or 5.12 in particular gyms, yet climb V1 or 5.10 outside or in other gyms. And also, you will get injured climbing, guaranteed. I don't know anyone who has climbed for more than a few months without having some sort of injury.


Are you aware that this thread has nothing to do with how hard the OP climbs, and is instead about whether his hangboarding is potentially risky at the level he is climbing?

To the OP, the MacLeod blog post has lots of good info. Generally as a rule of thumb I try and take a week or so off every 2 to 3 months and let my body recover. A lot of the concern over hangboarding is due to the intensity of the workouts done on the board. If you are trying to maximize strength, the best way to do that is to push yourself almost to failure repeatedly, which has lots of potential for injury. Without a better explanation of your workout its hard to say if you are at risk for injury. If nothing else, make sure you take rest days when necessary, use the board open handed and hang with bent arms.


FLAG
By mozeman
Oct 31, 2012

OP must be from boulder


FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2012
Bocan

mozeman wrote:
OP must be from boulder


Even worse...California!!!


FLAG
By Loyd Wofford III
Oct 31, 2012
DEVILS TOWER

D-Storm wrote:
Careful. Unless you are Joe Kinder, using too many exclamation points can lead to heart palpitations and people taking your comments less seriously. It's tempting to use an emoticon here to emphasize that this is all in good fun, but those things carry risks as well.

To Put it as the greatest MPer ever (Ripped)would. Emoticons are for skinny little sissys who cant handle their roids!!!!! Good thing my heart is made of phonite just like Joe Kinders marbles!!!!!!!! And even I'm not extreme enough to dare bouldering on Sunday.


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2012

For the OP ... ask yourself how many of these people replying boulder V5+ in the first place ... some do, most likely dont

and work from there

the best piece of advice given to me is to ignore those who dont climb at the level youre asking about for advice ... or at the very least should have climbed at that level in the past or be a coach/doctor/professional ...

climbing is full of people who will offer tons of "advice" on things they can never climb, or just slam you because they cant do it themselves ...

and then there are those who probably do climb at that level but just love seeing the world burn =P


FLAG
By Ian Stewart
Oct 31, 2012

bearbreeder wrote:
For the OP ... ask yourself how many of these people replying boulder V5+ in the first place ... some do, most likely dont and work from there the best piece of advice given to me is to ignore those who dont climb at the level youre asking about for advice ... or at the very least should have climbed at that level in the past or be a coach/doctor/professional ... climbing is full of people who will offer tons of "advice" on things they can never climb, or just slam you because they cant do it themselves ... and then there are those who probably do climb at that level but just love seeing the world burn =P


Being able to climb a certain grade is not a prerequisite for giving advice. I bet that MOST climbers, regardless of what grade they can climb, have injured themselves in the past due to over-training. I don't climb V5+ (well, I don't really boulder to begin with), but I've certainly hurt myself in the past, pulling hard on things that my untrained body/hands had no right pulling on in the first place.

However, the way the OP worded his post makes it pretty obvious that he just wants to spray and isn't really looking for advice. He said, after stating how quickly he's proceeded to V5, that "1-2 times a week he does a simple hangboard routine and he climbs once a week". Yeah...because that's a LOT of background information to go on, eh? Do you know what a "simple hangboard routine" is? If he really wanted advice, he would have given more specifics. Even the best climbing coach in the world can't work with what he's given us.


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2012

Ian Stewart wrote:
Being able to climb a certain grade is not a prerequisite for giving advice. I bet that MOST climbers, regardless of what grade they can climb, have injured themselves in the past due to over-training. I don't climb V5+ (well, I don't really boulder to begin with), but I've certainly hurt myself in the past, pulling hard on things that my untrained body/hands had no right pulling on in the first place. However, the way the OP worded his post makes it pretty obvious that he just wants to spray and isn't really looking for advice. He said, after stating how quickly he's proceeded to V5, that "1-2 times a week he does a simple hangboard routine and he climbs once a week". Yeah...because that's a LOT of background information to go on, eh? Do you know what a "simple hangboard routine" is? If he really wanted advice, he would have given more specifics. Even the best climbing coach in the world can't work with what he's given us.


well if you dont boulder, do you hangboard then? ... there a world of difference between doing 5.7/8/9/10a that yr profile suggest vs doing boulder problems ... how can you honestly give good advice about those injuries that may develop from bouldering or hangboarding?

i assume yr a doctor ;)


FLAG
By mozeman
Oct 31, 2012

Loyd Wofford III wrote:
oooooooohhhhhhhhhh the only thing I can think would be worse is a bearbreader extreme!!!!!!!!! I once watched a guy do a V5+ and my eyes burned for a week.

was he from boulder?

Cause i bet in boulder it would be a V2-


FLAG
By Loyd Wofford III
Oct 31, 2012
DEVILS TOWER

bearbreeder wrote:
well if you dont boulder, do you hangboard then? ... there a world of difference between doing 5.7/8/9/10a that yr profile suggest vs doing boulder problems ... how can you honestly give good advice about those injuries that may develop from bouldering or hangboarding? i assume yr a doctor ;)


I dont boulder (for obvious safety reasons) nor do I hangboard, I am not a doctor but I can see from your profile page you are a bearbreeder this must be why you are the one the OP should listen to.

PS How does one breed a bear missonary or doggie style either seems very hard?


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2012

lol ... the one the OP should be listening to are those who can do stuff at the level he wants to climb at and have had experience with bouldering/hangboard injuries

not some internet tough guys ;)

the only advice i offer is to go out and ask real people who boulder/climb hard, or a doctor/coach ... or write a note to one of the more popular blogs of good climbers like mr macleod or miss davis, etc ...

i mean you dont go out and ask how to become rich from someone whos constantly on employment assitance or working a low end job do ya now ;)

why would you do the same of climbing


FLAG
By Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Oct 31, 2012

What about sick FAs? Do only people with sick FAs like the OP qualify for giving advice?


FLAG
By Daniel Winder
Oct 31, 2012

Loyd Wofford III wrote:
I dont boulder (for obvious safety reasons)


Huh?


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2012

Dankasaurus wrote:
What about sick FAs? Do only people with sick FAs like the OP qualify for giving advice?


anyone can give advice .... the only question is whether its relevant or any good ;)

hell i can tell you how to climb a 5.14 and spray beta at you all the time, even if i cant climb anywhere near that ... wont get you anywhere though =P


FLAG
By Loyd Wofford III
Oct 31, 2012
DEVILS TOWER

Daniel Winder wrote:
Huh?


See earlier post on stats of deaths per year from bouldering!Crazy


FLAG
By Boodge Nomchompski
Oct 31, 2012
Ancient wall art

frankstoneline wrote:
Are you aware that this thread has nothing to do with how hard the OP climbs, and is instead about whether his hangboarding is potentially risky at the level he is climbing? To the OP, the MacLeod blog post has lots of good info. Generally as a rule of thumb I try and take a week or so off every 2 to 3 months and let my body recover. A lot of the concern over hangboarding is due to the intensity of the workouts done on the board. If you are trying to maximize strength, the best way to do that is to push yourself almost to failure repeatedly, which has lots of potential for injury. Without a better explanation of your workout its hard to say if you are at risk for injury. If nothing else, make sure you take rest days when necessary, use the board open handed and hang with bent arms.


Yes, your awesomeness, I'm aware it's not about how hard he's climbing. But, well done being a douchebag. I was pointing out the possibility he might NOT putting as much strain on himself as he may think, hang-boarding included, since one can also do relatively beginner level hang-boarding. He said himself that he does a "simple hang board routine." Point being, if he's actually climbing say, V1-2 and doing a hang-board workout of an equal or slightly tougher level, he's not likely to be over-stressing anything at this point. So ease the fuck up.


FLAG
By frankstoneline
Oct 31, 2012

Boodge Nomchompski wrote:
Yes, your awesomeness, I'm aware it's not about how hard he's climbing. But, well done being a douchebag. I was pointing out the possibility he might NOT putting as much strain on himself as he may think, hang-boarding included, since one can also do relatively beginner level hang-boarding. He said himself that he does a "simple hang board routine." Point being, if he's actually climbing say, V1-2 and doing a hang-board workout of an equal or slightly tougher level, he's not likely to be over-stressing anything at this point. So ease the fuck up.


It's an awful long stretch to make that connection based on your post. I wasn't trying to be a prick, just provide decent advice for the OP (there has been an awful lot of spraying in the thread and not much honest advice). How hard a climb is relative to the climber is what is important, not the grade, which is why I asked about his board workout. If he is pulling v2 outside but v5 in the gym doesn't matter, if the volume and intensity of the work he is doing is too high he runs the risk of injury.


FLAG
By Boodge Nomchompski
Oct 31, 2012
Ancient wall art

frankstoneline wrote:
It's an awful long stretch to make that connection based on your post. I wasn't trying to be a prick, just provide decent advice for the OP (there has been an awful lot of spraying in the thread and not much honest advice). How hard a climb is relative to the climber is what is important, not the grade, which is why I asked about his board workout. If he is pulling v2 outside but v5 in the gym doesn't matter, if the volume and intensity of the work he is doing is too high he runs the risk of injury.


Then we were making the exact same point. Difficulty of climb relative to climber is the point I was making as well - his gym's V4 may really only be V2 (as is common in gyms), thus hang-board workouts at that level wouldn't be too stressful, therefore, mitigating risk injury. I didn't think it was too big a stretch to extract that from my post if one used the context of the thread but, if it was, well, ok, I suppose. Finally, if you don't mean to be prick, then don't start a response with such hostility - that's what you'll get in return.


FLAG
By Edward_
Oct 31, 2012

I don't know if it helps, but most gyms set v0-v4 pretty easy to capture new climbers into thinking "wow i'm making so much progress so fast" and get a monthly membership.

Not to step on your accomplishments or anything, but I wouldn't see this as concerning you are "improving too fast". A lot of climbers at my gym go from v0 to v3 in a month or so.


FLAG
By Ian Stewart
Oct 31, 2012

bearbreeder wrote:
well if you dont boulder, do you hangboard then? ... there a world of difference between doing 5.7/8/9/10a that yr profile suggest vs doing boulder problems ... how can you honestly give good advice about those injuries that may develop from bouldering or hangboarding? i assume yr a doctor ;)


Good job taking the time to gauge my climbing ability by looking at the handful of climbs on my tick list from more than two years ago. Of course it's more likely that I haven't climbed since then than it is that I stopped bothering with an online tick list, right? Your research skills are top-notch.

If it makes you feel any better I was routinely working V5+ at my previous gym, even a couple years ago, before I realized that a) gym grades don't mean shit, b) bouldering isn't as much fun for me as roped climbing, and c) I was often injuring myself while bouldering. So, I don't really boulder much anymore except for a few rare occasions. I said I'm not a V5+ boulderer because I'm not: doing a handful of V5 problems at the gym doesn't make you a V5 boulderer.

Even if this means that you now think I'm 'fit' to give advice, if you look at my post I never actually GAVE any advice...I was arguing that your ability doesn't have any bearing on how applicable your opinion is. I also said that there's no way to give advice to the OP anyways, since there's no information in his post to base any advice on in the first place. Your advice was to "ask real people who climb hard" for advice instead of "internet tough guys". Well, there are LOTS of climbers on here that are WELL beyond the ability of the OP, and any of them (or even inferior climbers) could give great advice. They just need something more to work with than "I climb once a week and use a hangboard a couple times, am I going to hurt myself?"


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2012

Ian Stewart wrote:
Good job taking the time to gauge my climbing ability by looking at the handful of climbs on my tick list from more than two years ago. Of course it's more likely that I haven't climbed since then than it is that I stopped bothering with an online tick list, right? Your research skills are top-notch. If it makes you feel any better I was routinely working V5+ at my previous gym, even a couple years ago, before I realized that a) gym grades don't mean shit, b) bouldering isn't as much fun for me as roped climbing, and c) I was often injuring myself while bouldering. So, I don't really boulder much anymore except for a few rare occasions. I said I'm not a V5+ boulderer because I'm not: doing a handful of V5 problems at the gym doesn't make you a V5 boulderer. Even if this means that you now think I'm 'fit' to give advice, if you look at my post I never actually GAVE any advice...I was arguing that your ability doesn't have any bearing on how applicable your opinion is. I also said that there's no way to give advice to the OP anyways, since there's no information in his post to base any advice on in the first place. Your advice was to "ask real people who climb hard" for advice instead of "internet tough guys". Well, there are LOTS of climbers on here that are WELL beyond the ability of the OP, and any of them (or even inferior climbers) could give great advice. They just need something more to work with than "I climb once a week and use a hangboard a couple times, am I going to hurt myself?"


dya see much "great advice" on this thread ... the link to mr macleod's blog was likely the best piece ... other than that its the usual "bouldering sucks", "killing puppies by ticking off pebbles", "yr gonna die", "do a real 5.6 in the gunks", "bouldering kills more people than heart attacks" ...

and the occasional "take it easy"

i assume no one here has seen the OP climb ... maybe thats why he should go talk to a REAL person who can climb at the level they aspire to ;)


FLAG
By J Q
Oct 31, 2012
Me again!

Best troll ever. Two pages of idiots with hurt egos ranting about how grades don't matter, the question is stupid, and my opinion counts because my mom told me I am special and I call myself a climber. Funny stuff chufflets, funny stuff!


FLAG
By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Oct 31, 2012
Mathematical!

bearbreeder wrote:
For the OP ... ask yourself how many of these people replying boulder V5+ in the first place ... some do, most likely dont and work from there the best piece of advice given to me is to ignore those who dont climb at the level youre asking about for advice ... or at the very least should have climbed at that level in the past or be a coach/doctor/professional ...


Okay Bearbreeder, coming from someone who boulders harder than the OP, I don't see any reason why he should be hang boarding at this point. I say avoid the potential risk of injury, and focus more more on technique and core strength, which are probably greater limiting factors for someone who has only been climbing for ~3 months. Just my 2.

Of course, I don't really train. I just climb lots.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3   Next>   Last>>