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Am I headed for disaster?
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By IronMan
Oct 31, 2012

I started climbing in late July, and as of right now, I can routinely send V4, and I've done a V5 once..

1-2 times a week, I do a simple hangboard routine. I climb once a week usually on Sundays.

I've done this since late July.

Should I take a break?

Also, am I heading for a injury? Everything I've read says that I am moving a little fast.


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Oct 31, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Yer gonna die fer sher!


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 31, 2012
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

People who boulder more than once a month usually die in their first year of climbing.


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By Reginald McChufferton
Oct 31, 2012

Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:
People who boulder more than once a month usually die in their first year of climbing.


FACT


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By Unassigned User
Oct 31, 2012

Proven fact. Also clipping perma draws is a leasing cause of cancer.


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By Ian Stewart
Oct 31, 2012

I'm sorry, I didn't catch the question. I was distracted by all the spray in my face.


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By OldManRiver
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Oct 31, 2012
Red Rock, Cannibal crag

Wilson Marinez wrote:
I started climbing in late July, and as of right now, I can routinely send V4, and I've done a V5 once.. 1-2 times a week, I do a simple hangboard routine. I climb once a week usually on Sundays. I've done this since late July. Should I take a break? Also, am I heading for a injury? Everything I've read says that I am moving a little fast.


translation: I'm god's gift to the bouldering walls of uhmerica. Should I be concerned about making you inferiors know how good I am? Will my innate talent lead to injury? Is my superior genetic profile susceptible to common ailments such as ligament failure and tendonitis?

sploog on yur face

/translation

advice for OP: learn to enjoy climbing and stop focusing on how you're progressing faster than the average joe. then learn to listen to your body wrt fatigue. If you're not feeling fatigue or stress pulling more stressful moves, dont worry. If you are, manage to prevent injury.

pls keep in mind this is like reminding you to not wipe too hard lest you rupture a blood vessel. Not sure why you need to be told this, unless you're a complete narcissist


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Oct 31, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

OldManRiver wrote:
translation: I'm god's gift to the bouldering walls of uhmerica. Should I be concerned about making you inferiors know how good I am? Will my innate talent lead to injury? Is my superior genetic profile susceptible to common ailments such as ligament failure and tendonitis? sploog on yur face /translation advice for OP: learn to enjoy climbing and stop focusing on how you're progressing faster than the average joe. then learn to listen to your body wrt fatigue. If you're not feeling fatigue or stress pulling more stressful moves, dont worry. If you are, manage to prevent injury. pls keep in mind this is like reminding you to not wipe too hard lest you rupture a blood vessel. Not sure why you need to be told this, unless you're a complete narcissist


Bwahahaha! Good thing rule #1 isn't "don't be candid and brutally honest for it may lead to unmasking of poorly concealed spray."


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By Stiles
From the mountains
Oct 31, 2012
Rough

Muscles keep you from getting hurt. Lift weights, brah


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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Oct 31, 2012

Sounds like you need a project to focus your workout/rest routine. Your weekdays should build to a crescendo, and then rest a couple days before your weekend sends, then rest Monday.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2012
Bocan

In the gym?


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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Oct 31, 2012
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA I was working on - don't see that every day...

Tough crowd today Wilson - there is some good advice in between the smart ass comments though. Take it slow, finger/elbow injuries suck.


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2012
How I Send

I started climbing earlier this morning and now boulder V12. I have since developed sores all over my shirtless body. The only place they aren't appearing is under my beanie. Am I going to get worse when I crank V14 later this afternoon?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 31, 2012
...

Everyone is headed for disaster!

;-)


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By Tevis Blom
Oct 31, 2012

Sounds more like you are headed to V10!
I am jealous, we all are, take it with a grain of salt... took my big arse a long time to plateau at v4.

Rest days are your friend, go for a hike.

Chufftard and Tits, thanks for the good laughs, always some thoughtful stuff!


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By Buff Johnson
Oct 31, 2012
smiley face

and don't forget, every time you tick a pebble, God kills a puppy


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By Clayton Knudson
From Fargo, ND
Oct 31, 2012

just realized we need a share function on mountain project


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By Em Cos
From Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2012

Forestvonsinkafinger wrote:
Sounds like you need a project to focus your workout/rest routine. Your weekdays should build to a crescendo, and then rest a couple days before your weekend sends, then rest Monday.


So, when you say "weekdays should build to a crescendo", you mean Tuesday and Wednesday?


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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Oct 31, 2012
meow

You're most likely gonna die.

but seriously you actually aren't progessing that quickly in comparison to other youngin's I've seen these days. I've watched kids at the gym climb V3 their first week and by the time they get on problems outside, probably a month after they start, they are routinely sending and projecting V5 and above. They do train on hangboards routinely and some of them are now doing laps on campus rungs...

But alas, a few of them have royally f-ed themselves with injuries.

The trick I suppose is being in tune with your own body, clearly easier said then done, and WARMING UP! I heard more tendons pop watching my friends go for it not being sufficiently warm.

I used to boulder, then, like all of us, we had to grow up... pulled that beanie off my head, put my shirt back on and bought a rack of cams and have lost my f-ing mind.


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By Greg Springer
From Minneapolis
Oct 31, 2012
Friends big puppy

Not sure why you're climbing on the Sabbath, but you should probably chill on that


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 31, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!

chufftard wrote:
go do a 5.6 in the Gunks, then get back to us on how awesome you are.



OMG Gunkz Five Six = Euro 9a!!!111


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By Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Oct 31, 2012

Dear Thread,

Thank you.

-Dank


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By D-Storm
Oct 31, 2012
Enjoying a misty day on top of the Bookmark on Lumpy Ridge at age 14 or 15.

Take it easy, guys. I think the OP's question was in response to a recent Coache's Corner in Rock and Ice, which detailed advice for hangboard workouts and basically said to wait until after a full year or two of only bouldering before using a hangboard at all.

Wilson, in response to your question, I think the mag gave good advice. I pretty much lost a season when I was 23 due to hangboarding too obsessively when I had never bouldered much and thus didn't have the base strength built up to handle the intensity of 'board training.


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By T Howes
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 31, 2012

OP, be careful. Listen to your body and try not to push it too hard. You're less likely to injure yourself if you stick to routes/problems that allow open hand movement, meaning slopers instead of crimps.

I had similar performance in my first year of climbing and ended up injuring myself. It forced me to slow down and I still don't boulder any harder than I did 7 years ago.


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By amarius
Oct 31, 2012

Who knows where you headed, but read Dave MacLeod's musings on the topic


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By Boodge Nomchompski
Oct 31, 2012
Ancient wall art

If you haven't already (you didn't say, so I'll assume you climb in the gym), you should go climb outside and see if your gym's ratings stack up. There are plenty of people that climb V4 or 5.12 in particular gyms, yet climb V1 or 5.10 outside or in other gyms.
And also, you will get injured climbing, guaranteed. I don't know anyone who has climbed for more than a few months without having some sort of injury.


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