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Alvin's Route (TR) 
Bell Bottom Blues 
Bottomless Topless 
Brain Child 
Conform or Be Cast Out 
Crack of the Eighties 
Devaluation Direct 
Disciples Of the New Wave 
Farewell to Arms 
Hair and Now 
Hair Lip 
Hair Shirt 
Jam Session 
Karl's Gym 
Little Feat 
Manic Depression 
Missing Mind 
Molar Concentration 
Mole's Corner 
Monkey Paws 
Night Country 
Nova Express 
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster 
Panic in Detroit 
Pea Soup 
Peter Principle 
Pump Lust 
Rage Reduction 
Rapid Transit 
Rick and Eric's 
Sanitation Crack 
Side Effect 
Split Pea 
Telegraph Crack 
Thing, The 
Two Fingers Gold 
Unknown (5.10d) 
Unknown 5.7 
Welcome to My Nightmare 

Alvin's Route (TR) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  TR, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alvin McLane
Page Views: 534
Submitted By: 426 on Apr 17, 2007
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Ever meet one of the "orignal desert rats"? He used to do a spot of rock climbing as well...

Fun TR, especially if you just did Composure.


Just right of Composure, this face features a thin start. Can meet with the Flakes at the top or dab a little bit left. Variations exist.


Some long runners, a light rack is probably good to set it up.

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By Scott T
From: Alpine Meadows, CA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a fun climb. From below, it looks a bit junky...but climbs much better!

I found the best place to start is below a couple left facing flakes which lead to the toe of the arete, but not as far right as the "Flakes" route. Follow the crack on the left side of the arete up to the chains.

Like 426 says, many variations exist...more condusive when toproping. However, with the location of the chains and the sharp arete up higher, falls from the left side or on the arete would rub your rope pretty badly across the sharp arete, and send you swinging towards the Flakes side. Directionals in the crack on the left would help.

Very nice movement. I found extra yellow aliens to .75 Camalots useful.