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Ever meet one of the "orignal desert rats"? He used to do a spot of rock climbing as well...
Fun TR, especially if you just did Composure.
Just right of Composure, this face features a thin start. Can meet with the Flakes at the top or dab a little bit left. Variations exist.
Some long runners, a light rack is probably good to set it up.
|By Scott T|
From: Alpine Meadows, CA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This is a fun climb. From below, it looks a bit junky...but climbs much better!
I found the best place to start is below a couple left facing flakes which lead to the toe of the arete, but not as far right as the "Flakes" route. Follow the crack on the left side of the arete up to the chains.
Like 426 says, many variations exist...more condusive when toproping. However, with the location of the chains and the sharp arete up higher, falls from the left side or on the arete would rub your rope pretty badly across the sharp arete, and send you swinging towards the Flakes side. Directionals in the crack on the left would help.
Very nice movement. I found extra yellow aliens to .75 Camalots useful.