|Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
An ok roof bypass that unfortunately involves a pitch and a half of uninteresting climbing to get there. A variation exists passing the roof on the left (5.9-ish) but it doesn't look as fun as going under on the right side.
P1: (5.6?) Follow the first half of the first pitch on the Swift (if doing it in two pitches), then veer left and work up some easy 5.0 with a few small sections of more moderate climbing, depending on the path you take. You’re aiming for the roof at the top. Setup belay just about anywhere.
P2: (5.10a) Follow any of several paths up towards the prominent roof, though the crack leading straight underneath it is probably best. There’s a right-slanting hand-sized crack under the roof that allows passage to the right and over. The crack is a bit gritty still, but with some traffic it could turn into a fun route. Plenty of opportunity to setup belay on the slabs above.
Longish scramble off to climber’s right.
Start as for The Swift, up the ramp and traversing right under the headwall (if you protect it’s going to cut your pitch short). Go up the small chimney and break off of The Swift heading left, then up towards the roof at the top. The first pitch goes up easy broken terrain, there’s no real defined path until you get close to the roof.
Standard rack, I can’t remember if a 3” was absolutely necessary for the roof – but I’d take one.
|By Scott Z|
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Mar 24, 2010
250 feet of climbing with a 20 foot (or so) .10a section. Still a bit grungy and hollow flakes at/below the right-slanting "roof". A massively stuck forged friend with a yellow draw marks the crux of the route. A lifetime of classics to be had at Josh...this isn't one of them.
From: san diego, ca
Apr 9, 2013
What. A route named Altitude Sickness? Must do.