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Alternatives to Chaos? Favorite Trad Harnesses?
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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Mar 3, 2013

Hi:

Time to replace my harness, it's passing its 5th birthday. My Chaos has been great, best harness I've ever owned, and was mainly thinking to just get another one. Anybody have alternate trad harness favorites that I should consider?

Thanks!


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Mar 3, 2013

Here ya go - problem solved!

mountainproject.com/v/misty-mountain-appreciation-thread/107>>>


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Mar 3, 2013

The curret Chaos is pretty sweet as well as the Focus.

I also really dig my Arcteryx R350a


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By Travis Senor
From Mailing Address in NC
Mar 3, 2013
Profile photo, exhaustion after a long day on Rainier.

I have the WC Syncro and freaking love it. Lotsa loops, super comfy, and not that expensive.


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By JMo
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 3, 2013
mayflower

metolious safe tech. burly. adjustable everything. full strength everything. bend, oregon. your life aint worth a little extra?


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By Keith Robinson
Mar 3, 2013
Fitzroy09

I have to go with the Arc'teryx harnesses as well. I have the X350a which is most like the current R-360a. Light as can be. Comfortable, and did I mention light.

I have had several misty harnesses and liked the Cadillac. I have also had a bod, chaos for a few years as well as the Big Gun. I actually found the arc'teryx harness to be more comfortable on walls as well.


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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Mar 3, 2013
Me on Supercrack

I just got a Mammut Togir Light Harness for $50 at gear X, super light, and without those annoying leg buckles. It's more comfortable to hang in than my petzel sama. It also has those awesome plastic tie-in protectors. The bad: the gear loops suck! Luckily I rack cams on a shoulder sling.


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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Mar 4, 2013

Check out Misty Mountain Thread works.
I have there cadillac and Sonic. Both super confy with plenty of racking space.
Made in the USA and will take custom orders such as ice clipper slots, buckle types( old school or speed).
and there custy service is pretty good too,


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By goatdavemac
From Flat Rock, NC
Mar 4, 2013

Misty Mountain all the way...I've had 2 titans for big wall/long trad routes with lots of hanging belays. And it is extremely comfy, and all made in the USA. I'm on my second one in 13 years, so I feel that they are absolutely worth the price.


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Mar 4, 2013

I have a petzl corax, and in terms of trad harnesses, its one of the better ones I've seen. It doesn't have a dedicated haul line, but if that's an issue, you don't need a "trad" harness so much as a big-wall harness.


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Mar 4, 2013

JMo wrote:
metolious safe tech. burly. adjustable everything. full strength everything. bend, oregon. your life aint worth a little extra?


If you need to have anything besides your belay and tie in loops full strength you're doing it wrong.


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By bearbreeder
Mar 4, 2013

Ive blown out several dead bird harnesses ... As have otheres here

Right now i use a 20$ harness that doesnt climb or feel any worse


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By Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Mar 4, 2013
Kilroy

misty mtn caddy or gtfo.


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By Mitch Musci
Mar 4, 2013

NorCalNomad wrote:
If you need to have anything besides your belay and tie in loops full strength you're doing it wrong.


I don't think anyone "needs" to have the additional full-strength features. The safe tech all-around fits me perfect and suits my needs (on my second one) and it happens to have the full-strength features. As mentioned, very durable and made in the USA. Maybe a touch heavier than average (16oz) but fairly packable. Adjustable rise lets you dial in the fit. I have actually clipped myself to an anchor via a gear loop secondary to my main attachment via the climbing rope to re-position myself for better photo angles. If anything, it's a unique harness and the extra bombproof features add some peace of mind.


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By Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Mar 4, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of way right of Bloody Fingers.

All I wear/own is my Yates Shield. It works.


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By Robbie Brown
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 4, 2013
Jumping across the mace gap with a PBR

BD big gun! gear loops for days...


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Mar 5, 2013

Really? You don't find it "too much" for average trad? Just seems like overkill and hot to have all the extra coverage and padding.


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By Linnaeus
From New England/ Baltimore
Mar 5, 2013

Camp Quartz. Very comfy, good gear loops, light.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Mar 5, 2013

NorCalNomad wrote:
Really? You don't find it "too much" for average trad? Just seems like overkill and hot to have all the extra coverage and padding.


I had the same reaction...took a Big Gun off the rack at the shop yesterday and put it right back down without trying it on...the extra weight is strikingly noticeable...I guess if I was doing a lot of aid (which I think is the intended purpose of the harness) I'd be tempted, but according to the BD site, the Big Gun is 9oz (aka, more than half a pound!) heavier than the Chaos. I use one harness for everything (including backcountry alpine), so I can't sign up for a weight increase like that!


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Mar 5, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Robbie Brown wrote:
BD big gun! gear loops for days...


Lots of gear loops but...

The extra ones on the top of the belt are useless. Unless you somehow come up with a way to rack tiny stuff (on the smaller top gear loops) on top of what you're somehow not going to use or need on the rear gear loops- yeah, it's just a pain in the ass. More gear loops doesn't mean that it's efficient. The huge loop in the back is sometimes useful for stuff that you want to stay out of the way until the belay or rap, but that's about it. It's still too big and it's overkill.

The saving grace of this harness is that it is very comfortable, but you pay for it with weight. Go get a Misty. That's what I did, and it's totally worth it.


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By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Mar 5, 2013

One more vote for the Misty Caddy.

Got my first one two+ years ago mostly because of the 6 gear loops (great for trad) and more padding (great for gym setting).

Second one is waiting in the closet for this first one to finally get officially retired as it's getting pretty ratty in the tie-in points from being used five days a week.

Prior to the Caddy I had a Wild Country Helix because it had five gear loops. If you're just looking for a trad harness with plenty of gear loops I'd look at WC's offerings as well.


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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Mar 5, 2013

My 2cents

I'm dealing with my current harness for trad until these hit market
(BD Momentum SA - can literally get my rack on my harness but not a carabiner more & I don't have a huge rack, I'm a small and I guess BD assumes my gear is proportional to my waist size)

Wild Country Summit
6 Full Sized Gear loops 1 Tiny one dead center back
From what I've read/heard basically the replacement to the Syncro with a bunch of awesome updates



Summit Harness

Or if you don't want as many gear loops you can always go with the Eclipse by WC, basically the same thing just 4 full size gear loops with a 5th small one for belay/rap gear to stay out of the way

Eclipse Harness


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