Alternative Power 5.12b
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Description Another great Carcass route. From the slab head up and right making use of deep finger buckets. Either campus or smear through this section, clip, and head north on good edges. Great stone, and fun moves with a couple large lock offs. At the top, manipulate a weird hand jam/ lichen-y holds and a slight runout before clipping the chains. Very worthwhile.
Location Left side of the crag. The start is from a weird slab that must be gained.
Protection A few bolts (4 I think), bolted anchors. This often has fixed draws on it.
| Comments on Alternative Power |
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By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.12b
| Great route though slightly contrived finish (placing the anchor more to the left seems more logical). If you move slightly left at the very end you can get a no-hands rest (yes I used it) before traversing right again to the anchors although the true crux is below that anyways. |
By Derek Doucet
Jul 15, 2010
| Crux bolt missing its hanger as of 7/14/10. |
By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Jul 27, 2010
| the bolt hath been restored. horay! |
By Derek Doucet
Jul 28, 2010
| The name of the route is Alternative Power, not Powers |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.12b
| FA Was Peter Kamitses |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.12b
| A line going from the start of Alternative Power and finishing on Worthles Stud (i.e. "Alternative Stud" or "Worthless Power") is possible. All it needs is a couple bolts. Looks like it would be a 12 something but hard to tell. |
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