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Alternate Finish
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By Dr. Rocktopolus
From Chattanooga, TN
Nov 2, 2012
Whipping on the redpoint crux of " The Theater Of Pain " 5.13b Cooks Wall, NC

So I did the "way of life" route at Josh and I think I found a sick alt finish to the route some people might want to try. At the last bolt Im pretty sure most people are traversing over to the anchor. It is possible to make a tuff lock off move right at that last bolt and blast out a super long move up to a horizontal. It will put that last bolt at your left knee. Super rad move and I think it bumps the route up to a 5.12 grade line.

I dont know if it has been done because I kinda cleaned a bunch of dirt off of the holds up there and It did not look like they have been used before. When you traverse over on that horizontal the anchor will be at your hips. If this has been done before Im not trying to steal anybodys thunder just sharing a sick move on a great route. I enjoyed this thing and appreciate whoever put this thing up. I left a tick mark on the hold up there on that horizontal. Im curious to hear some feedback about this.

Either that or a bunch of dissing on me for climbing a sport route at J Tree.


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By Abel Jones
From Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 2, 2012
Nice Crisp day for an FA

Sport Weeny! Just messin... hope you're enjoying that trip out there man. did you already do leave it to beaver?


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By Dr. Rocktopolus
From Chattanooga, TN
Nov 2, 2012
Whipping on the redpoint crux of " The Theater Of Pain " 5.13b Cooks Wall, NC

Yeah I did. It did not go well, I fell on that fist Jam in that V cut and it did not come out. That thing ripped my hand open pretty bad.


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By Nelson Day
From Joshua Tree, CA
Nov 5, 2012
me (about to sneeze)

The alt finish Rob is talking about is pretty rad. I tried a few times, and failed... Tia managed to get it eventually. Long reach, especially for us vertically challenged folks. Strong move, and the hand rail traverse that Rob ticked out is fun.


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By T. Stark
From Los Angeles, CA
Nov 5, 2012
Rubicon direct "R" start (well the direct start that's not directly in the plants at least) <br />Photo by Rob Miramontes

Should have cleaned that tick...Blast.


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By RockyMtnTed
Nov 5, 2012

A one move variation?? Shit you need to put this classic on MP as soon as possible....


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By Dr. Rocktopolus
From Chattanooga, TN
Nov 5, 2012
Whipping on the redpoint crux of " The Theater Of Pain " 5.13b Cooks Wall, NC

No it's several moves, it takes a different slightly higher finish. It has one distinct hard move instead of the standard finish to the climb.

Thanks for your sarcasm, more would be appreciated for sure.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Nov 6, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

NCRob83 wrote:
No it's several moves, it takes a different slightly higher finish. It has one distinct hard move instead of the standard finish to the climb. Thanks for your sarcasm, more would be appreciated for sure.



sick send brah... total first FA there...way to shred the gnar....

did that do it for you rob!!

love
T


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By Dr. Rocktopolus
From Chattanooga, TN
Nov 7, 2012
Whipping on the redpoint crux of " The Theater Of Pain " 5.13b Cooks Wall, NC

I feel nothing but gratitude T...


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