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 ADVANCED
Altered States Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie S 
Air Express T 
Altered States T 
Angel's Ladder T 
Betty's Altered Elbow T 
Betty's In 3D T 
Clutching at Straws T 
Del Tongo T 
Discrete Feat T 
Dropping Out T 
Eagle Roof T 
Latter Day Sinner T 
Magic Circus T 
March of the Gummi Bears T 
Proscenium T 
Rhino's Chin, The T 
Romance on the Rocks T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Slip Slidin' T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stumpy T 
Thoroughflare T 

Altered States 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Steve Carruthers 1981
Page Views: 1,734
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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The glamorous granite in isolated Altered States

Description 

A fun route that climbs a groove that does protect rather well. It climbs the crack that cuts the slab right of Betty's and Cheap Thrills (The obvious right Facing wide crack). Mainly slab and face climbing with an odd crack move thrown in. Passing the roof at about 30 feet the rock was a little rotten, and right at the end of the first pitch also. The crux was just below the only bolt on the first pitch. The second pitch (I assume it is Altered State's second pitch), goes back left off the anchors into the crack, and reaches the bolt. After the bolt, find the easiest route through the multitude of chickenheads to the old belay tree. Don't touch it as it WILL fall and probably destroy your bags at the bottom. The easiest exit at this point is to continue up the wide crack until you reach the living pine tree seen in the distance. A 70 meter rope will barely reach. If you have a shorter rope plan on rigging an anchor. From here a 4th class scramble up and left will get you on top of Betty's Altered Elbow for a series of raps down. First pitch probably deserves three stars as it was fun and had relatively good rock the entire way. Second pitch had quite a bit of rice-y rock, and sketchy gear (1/4" buttonhead included). The exit pitch (Probably the last pitch of Cheap Thrills) had a few fun squeeze/chimney moves mixed in with a lot of loose and dangerous rock. I would recommend only doing the first pitch until the bolt and belay station gets replaced, and even then I would recommend that you are confident before leading that second pitch.

Location 

20 or so feet right of Cheap Thrills, near the north end of the routes on the east side. Look for an easy crack system that cuts through the roof band.

Protection 

There is a bolt and a piton on the first pitch and the second pitch has a bolt. Protection on the first pitch was standard rack. The second pitch had one good piece left of the anchors (largish cam), and a couple of micro nuts in a hollow flake system after the bolt. The climbing is easier but it is also kind of rotten, so be careful. The third pitch (exit pitch) needed really big gear. I had one piece that would work. It was also easy 5.6 or so. But the threat of rotten rock was everpresent. The runout rating I give is for the second pitch, although the first isn't well-protected.


Photos of Altered States Slideshow Add Photo
Feels like a long pitch! Checking the latest market indicators via cell phone...buy or sell or hold on?
Feels like a long pitch! Checking the latest marke...
Both pitches of Altered States.  Although the 2nd is misleading in this photo.
BETA PHOTO: Both pitches of Altered States. Although the 2nd ...
Looking for big pro on Altered States
Looking for big pro on Altered States
Altered States Classic Crack Climbing
Altered States Classic Crack Climbing
Air Express and Altered States w/o line
BETA PHOTO: Air Express and Altered States w/o line

Comments on Altered States Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 19, 2011
By tenesmus
Sep 23, 2006

We only did the first pitch and its worth the hike up there just for that. I really like this route. The pro is very solid when you get it. A 70M rope barely makes it back to the ground and left of the belay but you really need two ropes to TR it from there very effectively. There are nice anchors half way down to rap off with a 60.
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 23, 2006

The first place for pro is a long way off the ground, then placements become more plentiful ... until the crack runs out. Feet are very reliable as the route briefly turns from a crack climb to a face climb. Some nice chickenheads left of the crack are welcome.

Wear your low gaiters for the hike up, or your shoes will fill up with bits of gravel.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 12, 2009

This route sucks.
By Ben Folsom
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

What are you talking about Cheesy Nacho?? You must have gotten bouted up there.
This is one of the classic routes for the grade in the Wasatch!!
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 2, 2009

"Bouted?" Hardly, I onsighted it. I actually climbed it again and still think it sucks. I guess I was disappointed because I heard it was one of the Wasatch classics for its grade and it didn't deliver. A bunch of other people I've spoke to think it blows also. Thanks for making fun of my name, buddy.

The Cheese.
By Ben Folsom
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Wow! don't take it so hard, I was only giving you some shit.

I felt the need to defend this quality route. "This route sucks" doesn't make any sense.

Long and varied climbing on good rock with good gear in a beautiful setting. Seems like it would be hard not to enjoy.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Nov 2, 2009

it must not have
been a shirtless
coors swillin'
send.

these things happen
when you get so
hard core.

classic lines just
dont live up to how
hard you are.
By tenesmus
Nov 2, 2009

does not suck. You know why you did it, looking down on it from above like that. It at least looks too good not to drop over there and do.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 2, 2009

Mr. Ten,

I actually stared at the Wizards Chin for a long time. I looks as good as it is from my vantage. What a really enjoyable route. I climbed Altered States because I was already up there.
I heard you did "Fish for Brains." I promise to put a lower anchor on that second pitch. Sorry for being lazy and not getting around to it yet.




SN
By tenesmus
Nov 3, 2009

you masochistic bastard. BSmoot was talking about how incredibly awkward the Wizard's Chin is. You should write that up. Flared squeeze OW and chimneying. This comment qualifies everything you just said about Altered States.
The anchor we used on fish for brains was fine, had it not been for the 40 feet of scrub we had to crawl through to get there. We thought we were on something longer and kept looking around for other pitches, scratching our heads at the choss above and about TP's 4-star recommendation. Thank goodness TP saw us at the road and helped us see what we'd done instead. The first pitch is a keeper and Proudly done on lead, but what's the rusty bolt to the right?
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 3, 2009

Good point, Altered States is probably good. I wrote about the chin under the Magic Circus route.

We think that low bolt was an attempt up the water groove. After top-roping that line, we have concluded it unfinished. We couldn't find any type of protection in the blank rock above that low bolt. The climbing is "thugish" but fun.
By samg
Nov 11, 2009

Sucks... I dunno about that. Classic, I dunno about that either. Just my opinion. Wizard's Chin looks sweet.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The first pitch is good and long! If you want a better belay ledge continue to anchors for Romance (60m). Use long slings and/or run-out start to prevent rope drag. Save a finger sized cam for slightly run-out section below bolt. You can get down in three raps with a 60 or 2 with a 70.