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L to R R to L Alpha
Mostly west-facing, this gully has some fine slab routes, some great rock, some bad rock, and some moderate cracks. Not a location for the faint of heart as the approach borders on comical, and none of the easier routes are well-protected. Romance on the Rocks, Altered States, A Bright Shining Lie, are just some of the fine lines.
Caveat: My approach information may not be the best. About 50 feet up canyon form the archives road is a weak gully. Work your way up this gully, bushwhacking and trail-finding the entire way. Work your way further west through clearings until the main gully is attained. Climb up this gully.
21 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Altered States Gully
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Altered States Gully:
Altered States 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Betty's Altered Elbow 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 470'
Discrete Feat 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Proscenium 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
A Bright Shining Lie 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Romance on the Rocks 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Sticky Fingers 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Angel's Ladder 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Air Express 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Altered States Gully
Stumpy 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Altered States Gully
Named for the odd decapitated (but still thriving) pine at the head of the crack, Stumpy is the obvious splitter seen up-gully from the top of the Betty’s climbs or the last pitch of Altered States. Standing atop Betty’s Altered Elbow the line is obvious, perhaps about 300 vertical feet and a hefty bushwack away. It requested an ascent and we obliged.If you have previous ascent info let me know and I’ll update it.The start seemed a bit stiff, consisting of a steep flaring thin-finger crack wit...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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