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L to R R to L Alpha
Mostly west-facing, this gully has some fine slab routes, some great rock, some bad rock, and some moderate cracks. Not a location for the faint of heart as the approach borders on comical, and none of the easier routes are well-protected. Romance on the Rocks, Altered States, A Bright Shining Lie, are just some of the fine lines.
Caveat: My approach information may not be the best. About 50 feet up canyon form the archives road is a weak gully. Work your way up this gully, bushwhacking and trail-finding the entire way. Work your way further west through clearings until the main gully is attained. Climb up this gully.
22 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Altered States Gully
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Altered States Gully:
Altered States 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Betty's Altered Elbow 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 470'
Discrete Feat 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Proscenium 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
A Bright Shining Lie 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Angel's Ladder 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Sticky Fingers 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Romance on the Rocks 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Air Express 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Altered States Gully
Romance on the Rocks 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Altered States Gully
There is one distinct crux in the middle of the route, however getting to the first bolt could be considered the mental crux. To quote the Ruckmans guidebook "Hold your breath getting to the first bolt. This took a monumental effort to equip, with multiple falls occurring when the first ascentionists drilled bolt #4." Climb the corner system that shares the start with Altered States "crack," then traverse right under a small roof. After reaching the start of a chickenhead system charge u...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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