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Altered States Gully

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie S 
Air Express T 
Altered States T 
Angel's Ladder T 
Betty's Altered Elbow T 
Betty's In 3D T 
Clutching at Straws T 
Del Tongo T 
Discrete Feat T 
Dropping Out T 
Eagle Roof T 
Latter Day Sinner T 
Magic Circus T 
March of the Gummi Bears T 
Proscenium T 
Rhino's Chin, The T 
Romance on the Rocks T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Slip Slidin' T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stumpy T 
Thoroughflare T 

Altered States Gully  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 8, 2005


68° | 52°

67° | 53°

65° | 50°

67° | 50°

70° | 51°
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Mostly west-facing, this gully has some fine slab routes, some great rock, some bad rock, and some moderate cracks. Not a location for the faint of heart as the approach borders on comical, and none of the easier routes are well-protected. Romance on the Rocks, Altered States, A Bright Shining Lie, are just some of the fine lines.

P.S.Good slabbers come here as the rock needs a bit of cleaning, but otherwise some great lines.

Getting There 

Caveat: My approach information may not be the best. About 50 feet up canyon form the archives road is a weak gully. Work your way up this gully, bushwhacking and trail-finding the entire way. Work your way further west through clearings until the main gully is attained. Climb up this gully.

Climbing Season

For the Little Cottonwood Canyon area.

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

22 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Altered States Gully:
Slip Slidin'   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Altered States   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Magic Circus   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Discrete Feat   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   
Betty's Altered Elbow   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 470'   
The Rhino's Chin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Proscenium   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
A Bright Shining Lie   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Romance on the Rocks   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Angel's Ladder   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Sticky Fingers   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Air Express   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in Altered States Gully

Featured Route For Altered States Gully
Looking over at Les Ellison and Jim Mutscheller on...

Romance on the Rocks 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Altered States Gully
There is one distinct crux in the middle of the route, however getting to the first bolt could be considered the mental crux. To quote the Ruckmans guidebook "Hold your breath getting to the first bolt. This took a monumental effort to equip, with multiple falls occurring when the first ascentionists drilled bolt #4." Climb the corner system that shares the start with Altered States "crack," then traverse right under a small roof. After reaching the start of a chickenhead system charge u...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Altered States Gully Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2005
I'd like to check this place out but I dont like to chase geese.
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 29, 2006
As of 04/28/06, there was a cairn marked trail that was not too hard to follow to Altered States and The Fin. It starts just east of the archives road.
By Xover
Aug 26, 2006
No cairn anymore; just head up boulder strewn gully as opposed to bushwhacking.
By tenesmus
Apr 22, 2007
The trail is a lot easier to follow this year. Start per Nathan's description, but when you get a little past the large boulder start looking to the right for a nice trail with switchbacks through the trees and dumps you out at the bottom of the lower butress and then back into the gully

I was just looking at the route list for this area and most everything has an "R" by it. Most of the routes don't feel that bad though.
By Will Roth
From: Saranac Lake, NY
May 29, 2010
The approach is very easy and pretty fast. Start up the trail about 50ft East (up canyon) of the Archive Road. Keep going on this trail straight uphill. Eventually this trail comes to the base of the cliffs. Head West (left) and the trail dumps you into the gully just below the routes. Really cool area to explore! Great slab routes!!!!
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