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Altered States Gully

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie 
Air Express 
Altered States 
Angel's Ladder 
Betty's Altered Elbow 
Betty's In 3D 
Clutching at Straws 
Del Tongo 
Discrete Feat 
Dropping Out 
Eagle Roof 
Latter Day Sinner 
Magic Circus 
March of the Gummi Bears 
Proscenium 
Romance on the Rocks 
Sleight of Hand 
Slip Slidin' 
Sticky Fingers 
Stumpy 
Thoroughflare 

Altered States Gully 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 8, 2005
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The late Steve Carruthers nearing the end of Stick...

Description 

Mostly west-facing, this gully has some fine slab routes, some great rock, some bad rock, and some moderate cracks. Not a location for the faint of heart as the approach borders on comical, and none of the easier routes are well-protected. Romance on the Rocks, Altered States, A Bright Shining Lie, are just some of the fine lines.

P.S.Good slabbers come here as the rock needs a bit of cleaning, but otherwise some great lines.


Getting There 

Caveat: My approach information may not be the best. About 50 feet up canyon form the archives road is a weak gully. Work your way up this gully, bushwhacking and trail-finding the entire way. Work your way further west through clearings until the main gully is attained. Climb up this gully.


21 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',7],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Altered States Gully:
Altered States   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Betty's Altered Elbow   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 470'   
Discrete Feat   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   
Proscenium   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
A Bright Shining Lie   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Romance on the Rocks   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Sticky Fingers   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Angel's Ladder   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Air Express   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in Altered States Gully

Featured Route For Altered States Gully
The glamorous granite in isolated Altered States

Altered States 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Altered States Gully
A fun route that climbs a groove that does protect rather well. It climbs the crack that cuts the slab right of Betty's and Cheap Thrills (The obvious right Facing wide crack). Mainly slab and face climbing with an odd crack move thrown in. Passing the roof at about 30 feet the rock was a little rotten, and right at the end of the first pitch also. The crux was just below the only bolt on the first pitch. The second pitch (I assume it is Altered State's second pitch), goes back left off the...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Altered States Gully Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2005

I'd like to check this place out but I dont like to chase geese.

By Nathan Fisher
Apr 29, 2006

As of 04/28/06, there was a cairn marked trail that was not too hard to follow to Altered States and The Fin. It starts just east of the archives road.

By Xover
Aug 26, 2006

No cairn anymore; just head up boulder strewn gully as opposed to bushwhacking.

By tenesmus
Apr 22, 2007

The trail is a lot easier to follow this year. Start per Nathan's description, but when you get a little past the large boulder start looking to the right for a nice trail with switchbacks through the trees and dumps you out at the bottom of the lower butress and then back into the gully

I was just looking at the route list for this area and most everything has an "R" by it. Most of the routes don't feel that bad though.

By Will Roth
From: Lake Placid, NY
May 29, 2010

The approach is very easy and pretty fast. Start up the trail about 50ft East (up canyon) of the Archive Road. Keep going on this trail straight uphill. Eventually this trail comes to the base of the cliffs. Head West (left) and the trail dumps you into the gully just below the routes. Really cool area to explore! Great slab routes!!!!