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Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Hexenküche
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Allgäuer Traum S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Athos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baba Jaga S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Belohnung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crash V5 6C |
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Devil Wall S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Devils's Dance V6 7A |
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Diagonalweg S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Direkter Sanduhrweg (Direct Hour Glass Way) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exzess im Morgenrot (Excess at Sunrise) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Feenwald S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gabriels großzügiges Geschenk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Geölter Blitz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hexensex S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hexentanz (Witch's Dance) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Hiltpoltsteiner Weg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Klein und Gemein (Small and Mean) S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Kleine Hexen müssen hexen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kurz und Schmerzlos (Short and Painless) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kurzer Zauber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Master of Stone V6- 7A |
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Mauerblümchen (Wallflower) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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mihi Malte S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nordkante (North Arete) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Nordschlucht (North Gully) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nordwestkante S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ostkamin (East Chimney) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ostschlucht S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ostverschneidung (East Dihedral) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ostwand (East wall) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Phantom Lord V5 6C |
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Pipifax (Codswallop) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rattenschwanz S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Räuber Hotzenplotz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sad Lisa V2 5+ |
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Scherzkeks (Joke Cookies?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Solohex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Teufelspakt V3- 6A |
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Turmwächter (Tower Guard) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ulrikenpfeiler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Völlig Schwerlos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waldenser V1 5 |
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Wer hat Angst vor Anthony Braxton? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zittern verboten (shaking forbidden) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | T. Langer 1980 |
| Page Views: | 530 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath |
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Description
Leading this is a little weird. Climb up the crack of Ostverschneidung and don't clip the bolt which is right in front of your face. Instead, stem and lean way out to the right to clip the sling on the right wall. Then, since this is only 5.7, don't climb the overhanging and somewhat blank rock to your right, but instead continue up Ostverschneidung until you can reach out and clip the second sling on your right. Now go onto the right face. Getting onto the face is the crux. This is followed by generally pleasant, though a little wandering, climbing. After you clip the last bolt, go to the right to avoid the climbing that is definitely not 5.7 between you and the anchor.
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