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Park your car off of the main canyon road.
CLIMB RIGHT OF PILLAR
14 BOLTS & CHAINS 60 METER ROPE BUT 70 RECOMMENDED
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 17, 2009
Decomposing uber-choss (almost of doom!) through the first 4 clips, barely redeemed by a never ending sequence of long moves to smallish holds higher up. Thin crux with a nice exposed feeling.
If you send it with a threatening curtain of rain rolling in then showering your ass while lightning hits the top of the towers you get to put it as an 11c on you 8a scorecard...
Aug 9, 2009
Boissal is right, the bottom half of this is terribly dirty but the upper half is actually really fun thin .11a climbing. On the middle slab you can actually get monos with each hand. I'd never done that before and its pretty cool. Climbs like Ibex.
|By Ryan Stott|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 13, 2010
rating: 5.11c PG13
Very fun climb with tiny finger pockets and thin feet. The crux for me was just below the juggy section at the top.
Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites.
I ended up using a tiny protruding crystal as a foothold to deadpoint to a high pocket at the upper crux. Good shoes can make a significant difference on that hold
Sep 22, 2011
The lower half of this is absolute choss. I've never sent so much rock down on my belayer before... And took a pretty good whipper when a hold broke. The upper half is pretty decent, but there is no way its 11+ as listed on the guide. 11a sounds more like it, but thats the general theme with the newer Hellgate climbs, overated and chossy.
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 25, 2011
Lose weight, send route, suggest grade.
Edit: bumping this to 2 stars and down to 5.11ish. The crux is less sequential than the 11b to the right but thinner and comes after a lot more climbing. No choss to speak of this time, things are cleaning up.