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AltaTraz 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 8/25/03 Tyler P, Greg M
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 715
Submitted By: Greg Martinez on Sep 13, 2007
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  • Stay on the trails MORE INFO >>>
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description 

    UP HIGH


    Location 

    CLIMB RIGHT OF PILLAR


    Protection 

    14 BOLTS & CHAINS 60 METER ROPE BUT 70 RECOMMENDED



    Comments on AltaTraz Add Comment
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    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Jul 17, 2009
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

    Decomposing uber-choss (almost of doom!) through the first 4 clips, barely redeemed by a never ending sequence of long moves to smallish holds higher up. Thin crux with a nice exposed feeling.

    If you send it with a threatening curtain of rain rolling in then showering your ass while lightning hits the top of the towers you get to put it as an 11c on you 8a scorecard...

    By tenesmus
    Aug 9, 2009
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    Boissal is right, the bottom half of this is terribly dirty but the upper half is actually really fun thin .11a climbing. On the middle slab you can actually get monos with each hand. I'd never done that before and its pretty cool. Climbs like Ibex.

    By Ryan Stott
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Aug 13, 2010
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

    Very fun climb with tiny finger pockets and thin feet. The crux for me was just below the juggy section at the top.

    Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites.

    --BETA SPOLIER--
    I ended up using a tiny protruding crystal as a foothold to deadpoint to a high pocket at the upper crux. Good shoes can make a significant difference on that hold

    By wilcox510
    Sep 22, 2011

    The lower half of this is absolute choss. I've never sent so much rock down on my belayer before... And took a pretty good whipper when a hold broke. The upper half is pretty decent, but there is no way its 11+ as listed on the guide. 11a sounds more like it, but thats the general theme with the newer Hellgate climbs, overated and chossy.

    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Sep 25, 2011
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

    Lose weight, send route, suggest grade.

    Edit: bumping this to 2 stars and down to 5.11ish. The crux is less sequential than the 11b to the right but thinner and comes after a lot more climbing. No choss to speak of this time, things are cleaning up.